I compiled a detailed listing of gear weights for upcoming trips, and total weights are higher than ideal for a 6000m moderately technical peak (tocllaraju W face, or ranrapalca N face or NE ridge; both in early to mid July this summer).
Any thoughts for reductions, or specific advice for what isn't needed (for those routes) in your experience? The more opinions the better:)
Despite lightweighting ~5-6 lbs off already by going to different brands or models, the total weight of everything aside from a bare human climber is 57 lbs.
A summit configuration for eg ranrapalca (includes rock as well at some parts), total pack + rack weight is 34.5 lbs, would like this <30 lbs, ideally 25.
I'm hoping to cut 5 lb at the least, for a max pack + rack weight of 30 lb (which is already on the heavy side if trying to move fast); that's a total gear weight of 52 lbs.
Super bonus would be cutting 8 pounds total, for a pack + harness/gear weight of 27 and total gear weight of 49.
However, 3L water is already 6.6 lb, camera gear is already 4 lb, pack is 2.4 lb, so that is ~13 lb 'non-negotiable' weight.
For those who would find the details useful, here's a higher-level summary (not every single component is broken out)
- ropes: 2x beal ice lines are assumed as split weight for our party of 2-3. Doesn't count into pack weight, only total carry weight
- base pack, 2.4 lb in-pack weight: lidless lowe alpine alpine attack 45-55 pack + sunscreen + chapstick + hand sanitizer + compass/whistle + topo + emergency reflective bivy (3 oz)
- food/water, 8.4 lb in-pack weight, will decrease towards 0.5 as climb goes on: 3L water (6.6 lbs), lightweight platypus hydration bladder + powerade container instead of nalgene, 10x gu, 3x smaller snacks (eg gummy bears, chocolate bar), 1x larger snack (eg peanut butter or salami sandwich)
- camera gear, 4 lbs in-pack weight: ultrawide APS-C camera (Fuji X-T1 + 8 mm lens) + gopro/mount + many bats; cell phone.
- technical gear, 16 lbs total, 13 lbs in-pack/harness weight: 2x quarks / harness leashes; 2x 2ft pickets; sitta harness; 10x petzl laser speed screws; yates screamer; rock gear (.5 + .75 + 1 BD C4; blue+yellow TCU; pink tricam; #2 linkcam; half rack of BD nuts. I think this can be reduced to be more specific for a route), 10x mammut 8mm dynemma single length slings; 3x double length of same; 1x nylon single length runner; 40 ft 7 mm bail cord (10-15x ablakovs + spare for larger rock rap anchors); v-thread tool; creavasse gear (ultralight pulley / sterling sown prussik / sterling short hollow block); lightweight petzl knife; nut tool+cord+biner; strerling short purcell personal anchor; ultralight BD single trekking pole; snow claw ultralight hand shovel; 20x camp nano wiregate; 4x ultralight wild country lockers; 1x light BD pear belay biner; BD ATC guide.
- clothes, 8.8 lb total, 5.5 in pack (for reserve: use during belays, colder weather, etc): liner socks + heavyweight smartwool socks; croc gaiters; patagonia dual point alpine pants; leg base layer (in pack); lightweight patagonia base layer; patagonia R1 hoody; patagonia kniferidge jacket; rab photon x belay jacket (in pack, for belays); adidas glacier glasses; BD spot headlamp; petzl sirocco helmet; fleece cap; balaclava (in pack, for colder weather); OR alpine alibi ii glove (in pack, for belay, colder weather or wet other gloves); small TNF fleece glove liner; OR gripper glove;
- boots + crampons, 6.5 lb total: la sportiva nepal cube boots; camp nanotech XLC crampons (<-- obv not suitable for prolonged mixed, or prolonged steep ice, would bring vasaks in that case in exchange for an additional pound on the feet)
Possible weight reductions:
-Go to single beal opera + tagline for 60m rap, instead of 2x iceline. Drawback is less security while climbing, can;t do team of 3; will save ~ 2 lbs
-reduce camera weight via another camera. (gopros must stay). Not sure where to find a camera withs similar specs with similar wide angle capabilities (and viewfinder for bright mountain days).
-reflective bivy (3 oz), at the expense of our only fallback for injury protection/bivy if needed.
-snowclaw shovel (6 oz), at the expense of needing to dig in quickly for whatever reason. Snowclaw also doubles as a wrap-around emergency splint, better than back pack bivvy pads. Most inclined to leave this out, axe adze may make do but slower. Snowclaw also triples as a deadman for a rap if suitably buried, it's rated for that.
-gaiters (10 oz), at the expense of the approach possibly causing wet boots. Dry feet = important for staying warm.
-eliminate nylon sling (2.5 oz), use bail cord if needing a tied sling.
-bring less than 3L water. However I drink a lot.
-bring less food. I generally bonk if not having a constant stream of nourishment, though
-bring less than 3 pairs gloves. However, on a long snow/ice route like Toclla west ridge, having reserve glove = safety
Cutting out the only realistic candidates of shovel + gaiters + nylon sling removes 18 oz, so that leaves ~ 4 lb to go. If removing say 2x cams, that's another 0.5 lb, so 3.5 lb to go towards a 5 lb reduction.