Gear Critque/Suggestions

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chris0johnson

 
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Gear Critque/Suggestions

by chris0johnson » Wed Oct 17, 2012 10:33 pm

Hey folks,
I'm trying to get more into mountaineering (currently rock climbing/backpacking) and would love some critiques on my gear list. Currently I'm scheduled to climb Rainier via the Emmons Glacier router next June and hope to try and climb some of the other cascade peaks in July or the following year. Ultimately my goal is to summit Denali, however that's quite a few years down the line. With this in mind I understand the gear needs on Denali and the Cascades are very different, however I'd like to be able to use items that I've brought for the lower 48 on Denali where I can and rent the rest. I'd really appreciate any help/advice provided on the list before I part with my money.

My current proposed gear list (I've marked item's I already own, but please feel free to suggest alt's):

Clothing (upper):
Base Layer - First Ascent Expedition Base Layer (own)
Mid Layer - Arcteryx Atom LT (own)
Softshell - Arcteryx Venta MX
Shell - North Face Point Five
Belay Jacket - No idea... (down vs synthetic, etc)
Hat - SmartWool hat (own)
Lightweight Gloves - No idea
Mid Weight - Marmot Randonee
Mitts/Expedition Glove - No idea

Clothing (Lower):
Base Layer - First Ascent Expedition Base Layer (own)
Softshell - No Idea
Shell - No Idea
Socks - SmartWool Mountaineer (own)
Boots - Asolo Evoluzione (buying these used from guide)

Gear:
Sleeping Bag - REI Sub Kilo
Pack - Thinking about the First Ascent Alchemist 40
Ice Axe - Black Diamond Raven
Crampons - No idea
Trekking Poles - No idea
Helmet - Black Diamond Half Dome
Harness - Petzl Adjama

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radson

 
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Re: Gear Critque/Suggestions

by radson » Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:14 pm

Personally Chris I dont think you have addressed the core issues of gear ownership but as you have asked for a critique, I shall wade in.

First of all what is the colour of your shell jacket? Please tell me it's not black. If so you will never ever have a decent photo taken of you. I highly recommend red or orange for your main shell. Event, DryQ, Gore-tex..bleah. It's the colour stupid. Likewise for backpack. How does that colour complement your shell? Symmetry and aesthetics are important. At some point in time you really are going to have to decide if you are a soft shell kind of guy or fleece and hardshell. I recommend whichever makes you look more hard-core. If you find this difficult then Arcteryx over TNF any day.

Now, as for helmet, the ol' half dome is a bit old school, dont you think? At least get a Petzl Meteor III, extra funky style points are given if you can can pull of a Mammut El Cap. Go the stylish brim.

I must admit you have accessorised well, you dont want anything too flashy on the hands and as such your marmot gloves should serve you well. Arcteryx for gloves really places you firmly in the category of al the gear and no idea, so well done for going the 'less is more' route with the Marmots.

Asolo Evoluzione, hmm one could say that's all retro and funky but me personally...yuk. What are you thinking? Berlusconi is out..If you must go Italian, go new Italian... get some LS Batura 2,0's. Now we're talking. Man's stepping out in style.

Continuing trippin the Italian fantastic. BD Raven is a very safe choice...boring. Get some grivel happenin' Rip it up with an Air Tech Can you give me a Si, Si! Also the yellows in your axe and boots will really go well together.

Hope this helps. It may save you from such tragic fashion faux pas like this poor unfortunate soul. Red gloves with yellow boots! What was he thinking

Image

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MoapaPk

 
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Re: Gear Critque/Suggestions

by MoapaPk » Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:22 pm

I happen to like bright colors. They make SAR actions and body recovery much easier! Plus, it's easier to spot members of your team.

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Tonka

 
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Re: Gear Critque/Suggestions

by Tonka » Thu Oct 18, 2012 10:06 pm

Yea, that is some missed matched gear. You could climb Everest in the boots yet hike Arizona in the pants. His legs must be freezing :lol:

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climberslacker

 
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Re: Gear Critque/Suggestions

by climberslacker » Sun Oct 21, 2012 5:04 pm

Radson, definitely the best gear-related post in a long time. Really cut through all ogre marketing BS and got to the core of the issues.

9/10 would read again

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DrGranola

 
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Re: Gear Critque/Suggestions

by DrGranola » Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:48 pm

This is a pretty good article that I refer to frequently, as I am hoping to try Rainier soon. It sums up a lot of info from clothing to technical climbing gear.

http://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-t ... ier/507227
Last edited by DrGranola on Wed Oct 31, 2012 4:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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bkva

 
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Re: Gear Critque/Suggestions

by bkva » Mon Oct 29, 2012 4:41 pm

The FA Expedition weight base layer will be way too hot for Rainier in June, IMO. I've worn Capilene 2 on top and was still a bit warm on the lower mountain.

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luzak00

 
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Re: Gear Critque/Suggestions

by luzak00 » Tue Oct 30, 2012 1:53 am

Critique? Here we go…

chris0johnson wrote:Clothing (upper):
Base Layer - First Ascent Expedition Base Layer (own) too warm
Mid Layer - Arcteryx Atom LT (own) great, but really too warm for a mid-layer in the summer
Softshell - Arcteryx Venta MX doesn't fit into this system, too warm
Shell - North Face Point Five too heavy
Belay Jacket - No idea... (down vs synthetic, etc)
Hat - SmartWool hat (own)
Lightweight Gloves - No idea
Mid Weight - Marmot Randonee not terrible, not my choice either
Mitts/Expedition Glove - No idea

Clothing (Lower):
Base Layer - First Ascent Expedition Base Layer (own) not needed
Softshell - No Idea
Shell - No Idea not needed
Socks - SmartWool Mountaineer (own) solid
Boots - Asolo Evoluzione (buying these used from guide) too heavy, plastics are not fun

Gear:
Sleeping Bag - REI Sub Kilo heavy
Pack - Thinking about the First Ascent Alchemist 40 heavy, over-engineered, waiting to break
Ice Axe - Black Diamond Raven classic choice
Crampons - No idea
Trekking Poles - No idea
Helmet - Black Diamond Half Dome not bad
Harness - Petzl Adjama not bad


For summer in the Cascades, I'd suggest something like…

Clothing (upper):
Base Layer -Patagonia Cap 2
Mid Layer - NW Alpine Spider Light Hoody, Patagonia Cap 4 Hoody
Softshell - NW Alpine Simplicity Jacket
Shell - OR Helium
Belay Jacket - Arc'Teryx Atom SV, Patagonia Micro Puff, Atom LT
Hat - wear a hoody
Lightweight Gloves - REI All-Season, FA comparable
Mid Weight - BD Punisher, FA Mountain Light
Mitts/Expedition Glove - Not needed

Clothing (Lower):
Base Layer - none
Softshell - NW Alpine Fast/Light, Arc'Teryx Gamma LT
Shell - Marmot Precip
Socks - SmartWool, FA, Patagonia all good
Boots - Sportiva Trango or similar, Sportiva Nepal or similar for a heavy-duty warmer option

Gear:
Sleeping Bag - WM Summerlite
Pack - CCW Valdez
Ice Axe - Black Diamond Raven Pro
Crampons - Whatever fits your boots best, I like Grivel
Trekking Poles - BD Carbon
Helmet - Petzl Meteor
Harness - BD Couloir

The following user would like to thank luzak00 for this post
awilsondc


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