Planning to climb Humphreys in mid-Feburary. Obviously that's a ways out, but in a typical snow year what gear do I need in Feb? I've heard crampons aren't necessary -- which leads me to believe an ice axe isn't either. And is a ski descent worthwhile? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Mike Holmes

If you are coming from a long way, hedge your bets and pack the usual snow-climbing items, e.g. crampons, snowshoes, axe. Look into renting these items in Flagstaff, but if you have your own, bring them.

It is possible the route could be snow free in spots and heavily-consolidated snow elsewhere in which case crampons would probably suffice, along with an axe. The slopes above tree line can be steep.

If it has snowed recently, the upper slopes are prone to avalanches. It may not be possible to climb the peak for a few days. Storms tend to space out every couple weeks, and we may get a dry spell of a month or two. Or it can get slammed. Winds are always very strong on the rim.

I have been on the peak a few times in winter conditions for SAR trainings. I have seen it nearly bare of snow in Feb, and I have seen it with soft powder up to the armpits. It can be a fickle peak.

There's some nice ski/board lines, but obviously the snowpack will determine the quality of a ski descent. I would plan on crampons/ice axe. We did it in January, and were climbing refrozen snow and boarding corn, YMMV.