I live on Long Island and have been hiking the catskills/adirondacks for years and have been up Mt. Washington. I will be making my first trip to Colorado in August to tackle some 14k footers.

In the next year or two I would like to climb Rainier or something similar. Then work up to Denali. If one doesn't have the budget or time off to travel west very often what is the best way to train for this? I plan on doing a lot of winter hiking this winter including winter hikes in the White Mountains. I know we will have to take a crevasse rescue class and mountaineering class, but aside from that what do you guys recommend? Those of you that have done it how did you train and what did you do?

Mt. Washington will give you everything except altitude (which you can't do much about anyway) and crevasse falls (which you don't want to practice anyway).

Head up there, climb snow and ice, practice self-arrest and other ice-axe techniques, rig crevasse rescue systems (after sorting them out in a garage/tree/etc.), and you're good to go. Sleeping in a tent up there is a good idea too - setting up and tying down a tent to withstand winds (while in the wind and snow already) is never fun, but gets much easier with practice.

That's not so say you can approach Rainier like it's not a big deal, because it is a large, dangerous mountain, but after some trips up Washington in various conditions you will be ready for Rainier (and Denali, really) if you keep your head on straight.

As far as Rainier is concerned, I'd say the biggest difference from the Northeastern mountains, aside from the already mentioned issues related to glaciers and altitude, is the very real objective hazard from rockfall, icefall and avalanche that you frequently have to deal with. If you restrict your activities in the northeast to winter hiking, it is unlikely that you will ever seriously have to contend with any of these, with the possible exception of avalanche danger, but even then it's usually a matter of go or no go on a particular day. Of course the idea of "training" for objective hazards is in and of itself seems a bit strange - it's doesn't make much sense to deliberately venture into an area where something can fall on top of you unexpectedly. My point is that for these issues, it's not so much a question of training, but rather of awareness. You need to become extremely familiar with the mountain and specific route you're planning, keep track of conditions close to the time of your planned ascent, understand where the potential areas of danger will be, what times you want to avoid them, and so on. You will then want to time your ascent with these considerations in mind. In that sense it is very different than planning a winter climb of Mt. Washington, where most of your considerations have to do with weather and length of day.

That being said, I agree that frequent trips to the Whites, Dacks, etc. is a good idea, not only for practicing specific skills, but in general for getting accustomed to functioning in a cold, hostile environment which you will undoubtedly encounter on any of the big mountains.

I used to live back east (note the name "EastKing") and now climb out here quiet often (once a week). If there is anything you should be practicing is to gather three of your friends and actively practice the Z-pulley. Know it like the back of your hand. Whenever there is snow practice self-arrest. Also practice using prusiks.

Keep in mind that these peaks don't require roping up by their dog routes:

Shasta, Adams, Hood, South Sister,

As for Rainier, it is major rope up. You though can eliminate some of the altitude effect by going up to Camp Muir and sleeping an entire day before the summit push. Make sure you are with people who know the Z-pulley and that you are very fimiliar with it yourself. I also recommend you do a Shasta or Adams the week before. It will help acclimitize and get you mentally prepared for Rainier. Good luck and PM if you need an help or suggestions.

Had similar thoughts 13 years ago....if you like to hike, sign up with either RMI or IMG on one of their basic summit classes for Rainier..usually includes a day's orientation into cramponing, self arrest,etc. To get in shape, start ;an well rounded exercise program 8-12 weeks early (depending on how in shape you are) at the gym. The Stairmaster stepmill simulates hiking up mountains well and builds cardio and your legs....start at 20-30 minutes and work your way up to 40-45 minutes. I have summited almost 20 mountains up to 22,900' using the gym at sea level. Call IMG or RMI and ask them....usually very good at what it takes.

mambwe wrote:If one doesn't have the budget or time off to travel west very often what is the best way to train for this?

If you want to train in the NE try contacting IME in New Hampshire. Their climbing school has basic and advanced mountaineering courses.

http://www.ime-usa.com/imcs/index.html

Brad Marshall wrote:

mambwe wrote:If one doesn't have the budget or time off to travel west very often what is the best way to train for this?

If you want to train in the NE try contacting IME in New Hampshire. Their climbing school has basic and advanced mountaineering courses.

http://www.ime-usa.com/imcs/index.html

Back when I took ice instruction I saw another IME guide teaching a glacier course.

I took a 6 day glacier course with AAI.cc and that combined with climbing in the NE had me comfortable (enough) on Rainier. Where on Long Island are you? I'm in Southampton...

First of all, have you done any backpacking? If not, start backpacking now, do a lot of it especially long ones (over 2-3 days). This will teach you the most essential things - pack light and learn how to get away without extras and improvise with what you have. Also, longer trips will teach what works food-wise. Take a crevasse rescue course, and in the spring after the ski mountains close down, go up to Belleayre with your friends and practice rope travel, self-arrest and z-pulley systems...

I meant training more in terms of the physical approach to climbing a glaciated mountain. We don't have anything nearly as high and of the same composition as a Rainier or Denali. I realize i don't want to be in a situation where I have to use crevasse rescue.

I live in Plainview.

Yes, I have done some backpacking. One night trips with 40 lbs in my pack over 3 peaks and 15 miles. All done in the catskills.

mambwe wrote:I meant training more in terms of the physical approach to climbing a glaciated mountain. We don't have anything nearly as high and of the same composition as a Rainier or Denali. I realize i don't want to be in a situation where I have to use crevasse rescue.

I live in Plainview.

Yes, I have done some backpacking. One night trips with 40 lbs in my pack over 3 peaks and 15 miles. All done in the catskills.

You can get in to some very vertical spots in the Northeast.

I hope that 40lb pack has rocks in it. If that's just a normal overnight load, learning to pack light is your next step. A catskills overnight should be half that, mine is closer to 10 lb. 40lb is for 3 days on Rainier.

Hike the devils path. When it's no big deal to do it in two days, you're fit enough. There's nothing on the DC or West Buttress as steep as the DP.

Autoxfil wrote:I hope that 40lb pack has rocks in it. If that's just a normal overnight load, learning to pack light is your next step. A catskills overnight should be half that, mine is closer to 10 lb. 40lb is for 3 days on Rainier.

Hike the devils path. When it's no big deal to do it in two days, you're fit enough. There's nothing on the DC or West Buttress as steep as the DP.

I think my tent alone weighs ~5 lbs. We have since bought a water filtration pump which should help to cut down on the water weight. I think I brought two Nalgenes and my 100 oz camelback. I use a Gregory Baltoro 70 bag. My sleeping bag is probably super heavy as well. I'm sure I could cut down on the clothing a bit.

I'm positive I can cut some weight, but I doubt I could cut 20+ lbs. Is this done through buying more technical/expensive gear that is usually lighter? When we went it was still pretty cold. I believe in the upper 40's during the day and we got a light dusting the night we camped. Must have been in the low 20's/high teens that morning. We had hard packed snow as we got about 2900-3000'.

I hiked a 10 mile round trip as a day hike on Devils Path this past Saturday.

^^^ that's why I suggested backpacking - over time you will learn to cut on weight and get by with bare minimum. As for vertical challenges, I have done many 20+ mile dayhikes, and find Devil's Path the most challenging one both in physical and mental ways. I still think hiking up and down ski slopes in the spring a great training for glaciated mountains. Even blue runs will kick your butt, plus spring corn is the closest snow condition to the summer glacier snow...

I don't see anyone has suggested Ecuador? Eight hour flight and nearly the same time zone. Work on your skills and get some real altitude.