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Mid April in California

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Postby Lolli » Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:13 am

My, are you brown. California spring must be far advanced.
Looks like a nice day on that slope!
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Postby Guyzo » Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:13 pm

Squishy.... I have a cure for your problem.

Walk.....

If you keep going to the n00b climbs, that is all your going to find, n00bs. :wink:

I have my own rant.... sort of similar to Squishys but not the same.

This was sort of new to me, cause I am sort of anti-social, in a different way. :wink:

Went to JT, mid week, good time to grab a campsite and enjoy the spring desert.

Hemingway Buttress..... If you rock climb in JT you have been there. Home to most of the "poodle" climbs.

On weekends it is a "Zoo", this is to be expected cause it's home to some of the best climbs to be found.

But this was friday am.... it was my two friends and two other partys of two.... the sun was out, the flowers were blooming. The climbing, for me, was going pretty well. I am getting the sea legs back and was looking forward to climbing some of these proud cracks.

Now with me climbing is an emotional deal. I need to feel the urge to get out front, to drag that rope up there, to do the deed, get the send....... when your young you don't even think about this part of climbing. So to be frank, I need to get into the "mood" ( no little blue pills will work )

I was getting into the mood to do some daring deeds because the day was soooooooo bitchen, my old friends were all pulling down hard and my new friends, the other two parties, were sending climbs - in good style - this gets me going.

This all ended when a party of about oh --- 15 --- showed up. :(

Now I am all for "sharing" .... and I do share the rocks with all, but this was over the top- way over the top.

Within seconds the mood was gone. Helmeted "Masters" were issuing orders, arguing with each other, yelling at kids, kids yelling at each other. Watching the ringleader of this circus climb the easiest climb, was a nail biter as his feet slid and he sketched his way up to the crux with only a tiny "alien" for pro ( I found four bomb-proof placements ).

So without so much as a "Hi, how are you all doing?" from the Master, the mood was wrecked.

We bailed, the other two parties moved on also. I was pretty upset on several levels.

#1: My own selfish reasons at having a great day climbing ruined.
#2: A new and different look, for me, at just what "climbing" means to different folks.
#3: A realization, again for me, that rock climbing as I know it is disappearing.
#4: Some people ARE JERKS, and don't have a clue about anything.

After an hour or so we ended up at the Right, Left Mel cracks, pretty good climbing IMHO, with good friends and some joking around I got in the mood again. Thank you friends.

So Squishys story got me thinking about last Friday and what happened.

It's time to start walkin a distance to go climbing, again.

It worked on saturday and sunday, walk 1/2 hour, poof the people are gone :wink:

End of Rant.... I do feel better, thank you.

any similar experiences?

gk :)
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Postby Guyzo » Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:58 pm

Yes, I can relate.

It's unfair to put down n00b's, because I was there at one time. :wink:

You should have offered a TR to the person who got his "Line Jumped", this is a great way to see just what is up.

Dingus, I am just like you, married with kids, but did ya get any phone #'s (grey-haired style) for future references?????

I like the words: Female, Fit and Lycra used in the same sentence.

carry on. :wink:
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Postby gordonye » Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:30 pm

I was across Hwy 88 on Round Top on Saturday. The snow conditions were quite good.

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Postby gordonye » Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:02 am

We had just left the parking lot for Round Top at 12:30! Might have run into you if we left a few minutes later. There were quite a few skiers, hikers, and dogs in the basin making tracks left and right, some dragging sleds laden with heavy packs too! 8)
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