Moderate snow/ice/mixed in Peru?

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pjc30943

 
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Moderate snow/ice/mixed in Peru?

by pjc30943 » Fri Dec 04, 2015 9:32 pm

Suggestions for easy/moderate mixed climbs in Peru? Heading down there for climbing sometime between May and July, total time ~10 days. Other potential climbing targets include Tocllaraju NW ridge, but that is all snow/ice.

We're looking for a climb that is similar in difficulty and risk to the NW ridge (low risk is important), but includes some rock as well. Difficulty ideally about the same as Contamine-Griselle on Mont Blanc du Tacul...so, pretty straightforward and safe but really fun.

Thoughts or advice?

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sharperblue

 
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Re: Moderate snow/ice/mixed in Peru?

by sharperblue » Sun Dec 06, 2015 2:45 am

Churup SW face goes at around D and is a great climb. Since it's mixed, it's inherently more stout than say a 'soft' D like Tocllarajus easier ridge. It is significantly easier to access though! The Huandoys offer s lot of mixed as well, though stouter

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Re: Moderate snow/ice/mixed in Peru?

by pjc30943 » Tue Dec 08, 2015 8:39 am

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion. Looking at the SP page for that route (http://www.summitpost.org/churup-oeste/524952), it looks like the route may be poorly protected based on the NW Face route photo captions.

Anyone have thoughts on whether this is specific to the line taken by those climbers, or whether this may be true for the face in general?

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sharperblue

 
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Re: Moderate snow/ice/mixed in Peru?

by sharperblue » Tue Dec 08, 2015 9:39 pm

That is the easiest line on that face, yes. Most of the guidebooks in English necessarily only cover very little of what is actually there, but the out of print Sharman guide has an enormous amount of further details for additional routes up 'common' faces. Pick up a copy and you will find quite a bit more mixed lines than are listed elsewhere. The Tome guide is super as well but only available in Spanish and (I think) German

http://www.amazon.com/Climbs-Cordillera ... 0952358204

p.s. try not to buy it from Amazon ;)


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