"more moderate"

by **Up2zmtns** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 2:46 am

i would say the "traverse left" variation is easier than pulling the bulge. "bathtub" handholds are deep jugs that feel similar to holding the edge of a standard (read: old school) bathtub, in other words, much more secure (easier) than jamming a crack to pull that bulge

by **Guyzo** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:14 pm

squishy wrote:What the hell does that mean? How is that telling me anything? Does it mean harder or easier. Even with a nearby reference it's useless...

"Follow a long crack through a bulge (5.9), or traverse left under a small roof for a more moderate 5.9 that leads to a steep bulge on good "bathtub" handholds."

PS- whats a bathtub handhold?

Bathtub hold = glued on, rail, used by handicapped/old to get into "tub" ..... :roll:

any help?

by **Diggler** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:17 pm

janky = sketch

by **Andinistaloco** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 8:10 pm

"More moderate 5.9" = Arizona 5.8+ ?

by **ShortTimer** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:29 pm

Andinistaloco wrote:"More moderate 5.9" = Arizona 5.8+ ?

= Josh 5.7

by **ksolem** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:39 pm

ShortTimer wrote:
Andinistaloco wrote:"More moderate 5.9" = Arizona 5.8+ ?

= Josh 5.7

RedRocks 5.10b

by **fatdad** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:46 pm

Janky? Are you sure you don't mean "manky"?

Also, "more moderate" simply means it's not as hard as what you were just on.

by **Diggler** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:36 pm

MikeTX wrote:i was wondering about the +'s. i've seen those on ratings before. are they really a legitimate part of the rating system?

Legit. +s & -s were used frequently before a - d were added to .10s & above. You still see them frequently with 'older' guides, & they can also be used on climbs under .10. A good example is Crescent Arch in Tuolumne Meadows, a .9+.

by **ksolem** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:27 am

I always thought that the +/- ratings were intimidation and sandbagging techniques invented by unscrupulous guidebook authors. :wink:

by **bird** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:48 pm

ksolem wrote:
ShortTimer wrote:
Andinistaloco wrote:"More moderate 5.9" = Arizona 5.8+ ?

= Josh 5.7

RedRocks 5.10b

= Gunks 5.6

by **Andinistaloco** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 10:14 pm

bird wrote:
ksolem wrote:
ShortTimer wrote:
Andinistaloco wrote:"More moderate 5.9" = Arizona 5.8+ ?

= Josh 5.7

RedRocks 5.10b

= Gunks 5.6

= climbing gym 5.14c

"more moderate"

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