Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

Post climbing gear-related questions, offer advice. For classifieds, please use that forum.
User Avatar
TimB

 
Posts: 271
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:15 pm
Thanked: 43 times in 33 posts

Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by TimB » Tue Oct 22, 2013 3:24 pm

I have been looking for a good set of crampons that would be sort of a 'do it all' proposition. That is, snow mountaineering, beginning to moderate ice climbing, and possibly some mixed climbing down the road?
My boots are the LaSportiva Trango "Reds" as well as the LaSportiva Nepals.Both these boots fit me very well and I would like to stay with them, if at all possible.
So far, the Grivel G14 and Petzl Lynx look like good options?

Opinions?

Thank you!

User Avatar
seano

 
Posts: 490
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:52 pm
Thanked: 132 times in 110 posts

Re: Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by seano » Tue Oct 22, 2013 5:35 pm

TimB wrote:So far, the Grivel G14 and Petzl Lynx look like good options?

Semi-auto bindings (i.e. no toe bail) will work with both your boots, as will the flexy bars (as opposed to a solid platform). I don't know if being able to turn them into monopoints would be all that useful, though, and vertical front points can be a pain in the ass on steep snow. I'd just get basic 12-points with horizontal front points, as they'll do fine on anything up to WI-4. You could even get strap-ons, and put them on your approach shoes in a pinch; you'll probably want approach-shoe-compatible crampons anyways for late-spring or summer mountaineering.

The following user would like to thank seano for this post
TimB

User Avatar
DukeJH

 
Posts: 694
Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 11:12 am
Thanked: 50 times in 41 posts

Re: Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by DukeJH » Tue Oct 22, 2013 7:59 pm

Years ago in the same situation, not knowing what boots I would get, I purchased Grivel G12 strap-ons. The Black Diamond Contract Strap crampon is the same idea. I've used them on everything from approach shoes to backpacking boots to Koflach Arctis Expe double plastics and they've been great.

The following user would like to thank DukeJH for this post
TimB

User Avatar
TimB

 
Posts: 271
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:15 pm
Thanked: 43 times in 33 posts

Re: Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by TimB » Tue Oct 22, 2013 8:17 pm

Thanks fellas.
I found a pair of like-new G12s with the strap on front and(not sure what you call it) the binding on back, with a yellow lever and knurl to adjust the tension.
Maybe I should just buy those??

User Avatar
JHH60

 
Posts: 1244
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:59 pm
Thanked: 111 times in 91 posts

Re: Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by JHH60 » Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:14 am

Hybrid G12s (strap in front, lever lock in back) are a great choice for both your boots. I have a pair and use them on my Trangos and Nepals for snow and alpine ice climbing. They are quicker and easier to put on securely than strap ons and work well on boots (like Trangos) that don't have a toe ledge for step-in crampons.

The following user would like to thank JHH60 for this post
TimB

User Avatar
ywardhorner

 
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:59 am
Thanked: 30 times in 15 posts

Re: Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by ywardhorner » Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:24 am

TimB wrote:I have been looking for a good set of crampons that would be sort of a 'do it all' proposition. That is, snow mountaineering, beginning to moderate ice climbing, and possibly some mixed climbing down the road?
My boots are the LaSportiva Trango "Reds" as well as the LaSportiva Nepals.Both these boots fit me very well and I would like to stay with them, if at all possible.
So far, the Grivel G14 and Petzl Lynx look like good options?

Opinions?

Thank you!



I'm not familiar with your boots but I will say that I have the Petzl Lynx modular crampons and I'm extremely happy with them. They're so easy to get on and off. I like monopoints for waterfalls.
Connect with me on Twitter: https://twitter.com/YWardHorner or check out my blog http://blog.yvettewardhorner.com

no avatar
RobG19

 
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 4:18 am
Thanked: 2 times in 2 posts

Re: Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by RobG19 » Wed Oct 23, 2013 1:38 am

The Petzl Lynx are an excellent choice. Since these are modular crampons, you can use the flexible plastic bail with your LS Trango boots that do not have a front toe welt and the wire bail with your LS Nepal boots that do have a front toe welt. I'm happy with either style crampon for general snow climbing, but I definitely prefer a front wire bail for ice climbing - this provides a more secure boot/crampon fit IMO.

The following user would like to thank RobG19 for this post
TimB

User Avatar
seano

 
Posts: 490
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:52 pm
Thanked: 132 times in 110 posts

Re: Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by seano » Wed Oct 23, 2013 2:39 am

The G-12s sound like a pretty good option. One more thing: Dane, who has probably climbed more ice with one hand than I ever will with two, suggested on his blog to pay attention to how well or tightly the crampons fit on your boots. Having Trangos myself, I've found that the semi-flexible sole makes fitting them with crampons finicky; I would suggest you try out whatever you buy with the Trangos

The following user would like to thank seano for this post
TimB

User Avatar
TimB

 
Posts: 271
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:15 pm
Thanked: 43 times in 33 posts

Re: Most versatile crampon for a beginner?

by TimB » Wed Oct 23, 2013 2:54 pm

Seano,
I follow Dane's blog with interest. I appreciate your advice!
JHH60: Glad that someone has the exact same 'set' of boots as mine using the G12s-that really helps, thank you.
To all: I think I will go with those G12s for now and maybe purchase something like the Lynx down the road a bit. The modular approach of the Lynx is very attractive, I will admit.


Return to Gear

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests