mrchad9 wrote:Hotlum Glacier on August 26 was in great shape (perhaps ideal) with a lot of open crevasses, we crossed the bergshund without placing protection (and it was huge in spots). The right side of the headwall looked melted out and we went left following the chute closest to the headwall, placed a few screws and a couple pickets on the way up above the bergshrund.
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mrchad9 wrote:. . .
Calm conditions last Saturday, but horridly windy on Sunday. Luckily the route itself (but not our camp) was largely protected from the wind throughout the climb. A bit rough on the summit though. It was likely the best route to climb that day, other routes appeared too exposed to the wind and only one other party seemed to sign the register (not certain their route). Bonus was that the wind cleared all the smoke from the area, otherwise the views wouldn't have been as good.
clmbr wrote:As of Coquette Falls TH, I think I drove the right road which was crazy, especially its upper part, but don't recommend it as a good access to the Bolum glacier right now. Once you get out of the car on the end of that road there is no trail, just dust , bushes, grass, and scree and the glacier is far away. I forget to look back to check out at which place I left the forest and had some hard time to find my car. Well that was my mistake.
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