Need beta on Rainier:
Where can a climbing party camp on Muir snowfield? Are there established camps?
Are there crevasse problems getting off trail to camp there in late July?
What is route from Muir to Ingraham Flats like with a pack for a high camp? Would you recommend it?

tomonmountain wrote:Where can a climbing party camp on Muir snowfield? Are there established camps?

There aren't really any established camps on the Muir snowfield, but there are several areas where you could pitch a tent such as on top of Panarama Dome and there are some flat spots higher up as well.

tomonmountain wrote:Are there crevasse problems getting off trail to camp there in late July?

Late season there are crevasses high on the snow field, below Camp Muir. These are pretty narrow though. The most frightening thing I have seen is a round shaft, about the size of a man hole that went straight down to the bottom of the snow field, some hundred or so feet down. I could hear a torrent of water rushing under the snow pack. Scary to think how you would die if you fell in.

tomonmountain wrote:What is route from Muir to Ingraham Flats like with a pack for a high camp? Would you recommend it?

The route traverses the Cowlitz glacier on relatively flat terrain then climbs up to Cathedral gap several hundred feet and gains the Ingraham Glacier on the other side. The Ingraham Glacier is relatively flat until the Cleaver is gained. Every year one of the guide services establishs a camp there. I personally do not see the advantage of carting your overnight gear to camp in kind of a dangerous location. There are a lot of large crevasses so you have to probe carefully and the seracs from the Ingraham Glacier direct in later season creep me out. Not a place I would personally sleep well at.

My personal suggestion is to go as light as possible, get an early start from Paradise and take your time getting to Muir, drinking as much water as possible on the way. It is really not that far. If you have acclimatization issues plan to spend an extra night at Muir before your summit attempt. That is just my .02 cents.

tomonmountain wrote:Need beta on Rainier:
Where can a climbing party camp on Muir snowfield? Are there established camps?
Are there crevasse problems getting off trail to camp there in late July?
What is route from Muir to Ingraham Flats like with a pack for a high camp? Would you recommend it?

There are a number of good places to setup and few serious hazards.

Of course, you can dig a tent platform almost anywhere, but please consider skiers and other users when you do so. When you're done with your site, backfill the platform so skiers don't die when they unexpectedly hit it. Some prime places to camp are near Panorama Point (~7000ft) on the many flatter outcroppings, as well as the area known as "Little Africa" (~8000 ft) which is a series of rocky moraines that line the east edge of the snowfield between Mclure Rock and Anvil Rock. Only camp on snow, if possible, to minimize impact.

Use correct bearings to navigate your way in case of whiteout:
http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/u ... ompass.pdf

Beware of "The Ant Trap" at N46.808050 W121.724123 (WGS84), which is next to McClure rock. If you have a GPS, plug that in as a hazard.

Ive spent a couple nights on the Ingraham....There are usually plenty of platforms dug out by mid season. Just check the area first. I always camp about 100 feet or so below any of the guide operations. You are (typically) well out of any serac or rock fall danger. I have heard lots of action up higher while zipped up in my bag at night though. freaky.

I may be the exception, But I like getting a head start on the DC. If possible the first group up around 1-2 AM and then take my time on the upper mountain. This way I dont have 24 people kicking scree, ice, snow, and big rock down onto my group on the nose of the cleaver. IMO

cms829 wrote:I may be the exception, But I like getting a head start on the DC. If possible the first group up around 1-2 AM and then take my time on the upper mountain. This way I dont have 24 people kicking scree, ice, snow, and big rock down onto my group on the nose of the cleaver. IMO

Dunno whether you're the exception, but it's a good plan.