Greetings all, my wife and I have been sport climbing and mountaineering a few years now and are transitioning in to Trad climbing. We would like to try the cables route on Longs and the NW butress of Capitol in late July 2014. We have never climbed in Colorado but have in Utah, Canadian Rockies, Rainier, Wva. These good beginner Trad routes?? From what we've read they look pretty straight forward. Any advice, gear suggestions, etc would be delightful. Thanks so much in advance.

Dan and Jen

When you say beginner, you mean you've never climbed trad before at all? If that's the case spend your time in CO at Eldo or Lumpy learning trad climbing. The alpine is a place to practice your craft, not learn it.

However, if you are determined to do alpine I would stay far away from the NW buttress on Capitol, that is a serious route and loose and dangerous (so I've heard, I have little interest in ever trying to climb it). Cables route would be a good starter, so would the Spiral Route on Notchtop.

Ditto. You don't learn trad on alpine routes. There are many 1-5 pitch routes on crags all over the country that are much closer to help in the event of an emergency. It's not that you "can't"....but it's ill advised. Also, stick to bomb proof solid, well traveled route if you do an alpine climb....if you see loose rock in the description....run. A new trad leader setting placements or anchors in rotten rock is a recipe for a body removal.

Hey thanks for the input guys. We are not 'new" to Trad but have only been leading Trad about a year. This past summer we did some multi pitch (one 13 pitch) routes in the Canadian Rockies in around Baniff and Jasper. That is what we mean by "new". We had read about the loose rock on Capitol but was also under the impression there were only a couple class v pitches on that route and the rest was IV. (Of course not taking away from the crap rock issue). Again, thanks for your input. We really appreciate it!!

SgtUSMC wrote:Hey thanks for the input guys. We are not 'new" to Trad but have only been leading Trad about a year. This past summer we did some multi pitch (one 13 pitch) routes in the Canadian Rockies in around Baniff and Jasper. That is what we mean by "new". We had read about the loose rock on Capitol but was also under the impression there were only a couple class v pitches on that route and the rest was IV. (Of course not taking away from the crap rock issue). Again, thanks for your input. We really appreciate it!!

Ah, got it. Sorry, I didn't mean to presume.

Yes, Cables is a good beginner route but for the amount of effort it requires for one short pitch of 5.4 there are many better options in RMNP and Longs. North Ridge on Spearhead is a fantastic 6-7 pitch 5.6+ in an awesome setting, you can spend the night and do the North Buttress on Pagoda (5.7) as well. The bivy caves near Spearhead are awesome and a delight that is reserved only for technical climbers.

There is also the NE Ridge on Sharkstooth (5.7), south face of the Petit Grepon (5.9 - 50 classics climb), Wham and Zowie spires (5.8 ish) etc etc., in reality alpine multi-pitch rock routes abound in RMNP. You may want to buy Bernard Gillett's book as a reference (RMNP - High Peaks) or the older Richard Rossiter guide.

If you're dead set on a 14er, look into Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle (5.7) it's a 50 classics climb. Capitol is really a junk show from what I've heard, yes it only has a few 5th class pitches but they are very loose and difficult to protect (again, from what I've heard).