Hi everyone,

Before posting I did a lot of search on the web and forums, but couldn't find a good answer. In 30 days approximately I'm heading towards Cerro Plata (6000m), in Los Andes, for the second time (last year we got to 5300m and had to come back due to illness of two team members, we were four members and you know, we go as a team, we get back as a team). This year I'm going alone in alpine style, so I'm looking at my equipment quite carefully.

I recently decided to buy crampons instead of renting. I bought Petlz Vasak step-in crampons, but -mistake on my part- didn't check if they correcly fit on my double boots, which are La Sportiva Baruntse (they fit nicely on my La Sportiva Karakorums).

The problem is not the fitting itself, the problem is that my boots are 46.5EU size and as I can see, the stock link on the Petzl are up to 46EU size. It's impossible for me to get the long links from Petzl. They are not sold here in Argentina, and they won't make it in time if I order them overseas (customs is like hell).

I managed to get a nice fit and a good clamp -not too tight but not too loose- by moving the front wire to the most front position. I know that this adjustment is not meant to adjust size but to adjust crampons front points (short or long). With the front wire in that position I can lock the link bar between front and rear part of the crampon -the real size adjustment- on the before-last hole.

If I leave the front wire on the rearmost position -long front points setting- and use the last hole on the link bar, I can get the crampon to fit my Baruntses, but is a very tight fit and makes me a little afraid. The lock closes correctly, but it's tight.

My question is: is it safe to use the crampons like that, on the last hole of the link and with a tight clamp? Or is it better to use the crampons with the front wire in the short front point position and the link on one-before-last hole and deal with the short points? I certainly prefer the long front points position, but it's always better to have short points than no points at all because the crampon broke or bailed out.

Thanks in advance for your advice and sorry for my english, it's not my mother tongue. If something isn't clear, I can upload some pics!

Best regards,
Bas

You should be fine. The front points on Vasaks are relatively long, so adjusting them a bit shorter should not hurt, especially since they are new (unfiled). If the crampons fit securely, I would say you are good to go.

Thanks for the quick reply! I was afraid that the short point setting would turn the front points almost useless. It's a relief to know this.

On the route to the top there's only one place where I really need to front point and I was afraid that the short point setting wouldn't be good enough. Last year it was difficult with only my attack backpack, and this year I'll have to pass the section with my whole backpack (which is wheighing above 30kg since I'm going alpine style). It's not that hard, it's like a 20m slope at a 50 degree angle covered in slippery ice, but with a 30kg backpack can be a little difficult.

Unbelievably, the place where I bought the Vasaks apparently has one set of long link bars. I say apparently because I still haven't seen the bars and I'm not sure if they're compatible. Next saturday I'll be checking, but in any case, it's a relief to know that the short front point setting is still usable to kick some ice.

I am wondering if it's normal to have a significant difference between my two La Sportiva boots on the same number (46.5EU).

If I adjust my crampons for the Karakorums, they don't fit on the Baruntse, and viceversa, if I adjust them for the Baruntses, they are a loose fit on the Karakorums. They are so different that I have to move the link bar one or two holes and also adjust the leverlock to get a nice clamp between boots.

Thanks again!
Bas

You mentioned the Karakorums, 21 years ago I bought the original version, the LS K2s (La Sportivia had to change the name to the Karakorums because there is an American ski manufacturer named K2). These were a classic, one piece leather, non insulated all mountain boot, which had a relatively low profile. The Baruntse (a partner had a pair) is really a synthetic double boot, which has a significantly higher volume and profile, so it makes sense that you would have to adjust the crampons between the two boots.

FWIW, I recently retired my first generation Grivel Rambos (think 20+ years old) and the front points had been filed down quite short. I've found moving to longer front points to make ice climbing more difficult in hard ice conditions. In soft ice or snow the longer front points are just fine.

Well, confirmed! The local shop had a pair of long links around! My doubts where if the long links they had were indeed for my crampons. Good news, they are! So here I am with the correct setup. I didn't post before because I managed to get to the shop just yesterday and I switched the links just now.

Following your advice that the long front points were fine for soft ice I went back to that setting since I doubt I will be encountering very hard ice (perhaps only a small section) but mostly there will be soft ice over scree in somewhat steep terrain, but not too steep.

One doubt I have is that in another shop here in Argentina someone told me that these crampons are adjustable for rigid boots or semi rigid boots by adjusting something on the link bar (perhaps the anchor point on the rear or front part of the crampon?).

Nevertheless, I looked everywhere on the manual and there's nothing like that mentioned. You just adjust the points settting (long or short), size and micro adjustment on the leverlock, and you're good to go apparently.

Am I missing something?

Thanks again!
Bas

Bas wrote:I am wondering if it's normal to have a significant difference between my two La Sportiva boots on the same number (46.5EU).

I use Petzl Vasak step-ins on my LS Nepal Extremes and LS Spantik. I have to extend them at least one hole to fit on the Spantiks. The boots are roughly the same length (and same weight!) but I definitely need to change the setting when I change boots.

I don't know of any adjustment to make them more or less flexible. On the old Grivel 2F that I used to climb in you could put in or take out a screw that locked the front half of the crampon to the rear, or let it hinge. I've occasionally seen attempted variations on this in other modern crampons, but it's rare and not on my Vasaks. Also on Grivel crampons, you can buy an optional, more flexible centre bar, but I don't know if Petzl do something similar.

I remember those Grivel 2Fs. They were a strong argument for anti-bot plates. The worst balling crampons I've ever used.