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Places of Magic and Power

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.

Places of Magic and Power

Postby Deleted User » Sat Oct 17, 2009 1:10 am

In this thread:

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=47148&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=345

I got to show Lolli one of 'my' places. If you're lucky as I am, you have these places too. Anyway, looking for one thing I find another. I started to explain in that other thread how much time I have spent in this place, this summer.

One of my best friends on the planet died in a terrible car crash. Lots of other trials and tribulations too. But interspersed with this was joy and love and laughter too.

Life in other words. So feeling rather fond of this place, for its healing properties, I thought I would post more pics from the same spot. I hope you will indulge me...

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Angst, conflict, depression, grief, loss - sometimes a man just needs to run and hide. Better run like Hell!

Speaking of Hell, I know a place smack dab inbetween, the Fist of God on one side, the Supplicant Hands on the other.

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And below this spot is heaven.
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Not easy to get there even though you can see it from the highway. There's no real trail and most of the year the creek is dangerous to cross, so a bit of a hidden bridge is vital.
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Getting close to the goods:
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I have a rig I use for self-belay top rope. I'm not going to explain it - you either know what you are looking at here or you do not. This is not a mfg recommended rigging and it is fraught with inherent risk.
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Just right for me, wouldn't you say???
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Hah! So I clip in and start climbing...
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and head up something like this
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I can get in lap after lap. Just get to the top, quickly switch to grigri rap, down to bottom, quick switch and continue climbing. I can easily get in 10 laps in an hour or so, about a hundred feet at a pop. Its AWESOME!
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So I have spent many days out in this place. In early Sept. just before my eldest daughter went off to University, we did a 'last great climbing expedition' to this place of Magic. Check it out.

Bossman says ya hafta hike!
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So hike we do, past junipers hundreds of years old.
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Its my job to handle all the rigging, all the safety, everything. I want my children to focus strictly on the climbing. A guy has to be very careful when he takes on the whole shootin match for 3 people. I give it due caution.
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So... Kaity is up first. Kaity is a natural with a stubborn streak. At 12 she's routinely sending 5.8 cracks now (of all sizes) and has handled 5.9 with a few hangs. Real deal 5.9 - never been in a climbing gym in her life. She has the Gift, watch her go!
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This next part is 5.8ish with a bit of a reach so Kaity, being Lynn Hill in height, had to find her own way to do it.
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Her footwork is a thing of beauty.
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And when Kaity finds a 1-foot no hands hip scum kneebar rest in the middle of Paradise she takes the time to celebrate!
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University Girl beams with pride as her little sister tops out!
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Then its HER TURN, rock and roll!
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Lolli's Line
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GABBY SENDS TOO!
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And I never tired of the Ancient Ones who stand in mute witness to our antics in the golden sunshine of California.
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So once again getting chased out by the setting sun the kids pack up
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One last mug for the camera
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and we are out of there. One week later Gabby is at school and I'm wondering where my little girl grew up and went off too.... (sniff!)

I've brought all my other daughters here too and roped em all to the Stone Steep Grade. Here's the best shot ever of a post-send Lexi.... got the MAGIC!!!111111
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Cheers!
DMT
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Postby cp0915 » Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:59 am

Excellence.
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Postby butitsadryheat » Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:17 am

That is pretty fucking cool. Full stop.
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Postby MoapaPk » Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:44 am

Good kids.
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Postby butitsadryheat » Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:55 am

DMT. We may have our differences, but I must say that this...

Dingus Milktoast wrote:I've brought all my other daughters here too and roped em all to the Stone Steep Grade. Here's the best shot ever of a post-send Lexi.... got the MAGIC!!!111111
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(the whole project/day) is one of the coolest fucking things I've ever seen. Good on you.
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Postby Deleted User » Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:36 pm

Our differences are far less than you think. I've invited you to climb several times, if you think about it. Forget about all that shite dude. its water under the bridge. Though I did send all those peaks (but two) near Bakersfield I was talking about. I'll let you know when I get ready to do those you're welcome to come along.

Anyway, thank you for your kind words. Sometimes my kids really shake their heads at me. After a road trip with me (none in particular, but a few more notable than others) she starts quoting the Mrs Breem from the Donner Party:

"Don't tarry on the road. And don't never take no shortcuts."

Hah! Like driving north, spur of the moment, on the Usal Camp road near the Lost Coast. Quite a .... short cut. Haha.

Anyway, even my tortured kids feel the magic of this place. That it is literally right next to a highway and only minutes from the parking area and yet consistently EMPTY, utterly empty of all other climbers, well, that suits an anti-social Dingus just fine. Them too apparently.

Cheers
DMT
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