PeterCorneliusSpaeth wrote:Incredible guys. But it seems while two of them made it back to their highcamp at 7400m the other two last night had to bivouc on the col at 7900m. I hope they all safely make it down at least to C2 today. As reported wind was low but still extremely cold. Hope for no frostbites !

You are right Peter. Why leaving two team mates up in the mountain Is this a successful expedition

In either way they made the history on various levels. Casualty has to be always expected, especially if the goal is set of a high importance, in any field (just in some other fields we easily accept them). People die in the mountains all over the world on any elevation for “no reason”, just for the love of climbing. (I’m not trying to justify or even explain that.)

These climbers did not wake up one day to spontaneously start climbing. Their fathers died due to the mountain accidents too. Man, struggling for about eight hours what was expected to be climbed down in one hour (in a good weather) shows their determination and high spirit in the battle for their lives. They had to know they were dying and still kept fighting till their bodies completely collapsed.

I’m not a world class climber (far from that) but have had enough experiences to understand that no matter how strong and careful a person is an innocent trigger may create a horror, even if one expects unexpected.

So, “Is this a successful expedition?” Would it be if no one summated? There will always be others trying to accomplish new records and some of them most certainly may die. Can you stop that?

Climb Safe.

clmbr,

In my opinion mountaineering is not leaving team mates up in the mountain. Even when alpine climbing I try not to do it so I have many doubts about that expedition success. I know that it was -35°C, very strong wind guts and few oxygen anyway...

Diego Sahagún wrote:clmbr,

In my opinion mountaineering is not leaving team mates up in the mountain. Even when alpine climbing I try not to do it so I have many doubts about that expedition success. I know that it was -35°C, very strong wind guts and few oxygen anyway...

“No one is supposed to be left behind,” agree; however, there is no proper data available and may never be. There are too many possible factors/scenarios to speculate that led to the tragedy and the fact that they separated that day.

As of success:

The summit has been conquered!!!!
Posted by Administrator (marek karnecki) on 05.03.2013

Between 5:30 and 6:00 PM local time all four climbers of the assault team: Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak 8,027 m.
However, we may declare the complete success when they reach the base camp what is planned for 6th March.
Artur Hajzer

the leader of the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015 program

Source: http://polishwinterhimalaism.pl/pages/posts/the-summit-has-been-conquered-628.php

Added: “supposed to be” for clarity.

That's what they say and what you think about alpine climbing but my opinion is another one. Even I think that it has been well showed here...

Diego Sahagún wrote:That's what they say and what you think about alpine climbing but mine is another one. Even I think that it has been well showed here...

Not sure if I understand the meaning of the above. Could you be more specific (rephrase it) please? Thanks

I'm pretty sure Diego is clearly agreeing to disagree with you and the expedition leaders.

Perhaps we both could speak Spanish clmbr..

Woodie, I don't agree clmbr on this topic. Neither I know his real name. Thanks

http://desnivel.com/expediciones/sin-no ... broad-peak (in Spanish)

"Brother of dead Broad Peak climber to search for bodies"
http://www.thenews.pl/1/10/Artykul/129701,Brother-of-dead-Broad-Peak-climber-to-search-for-bodies

Press Release - Posted by Administrator [of Polish Winter Himalaism] (marek karnecki) on 29.03.2013