Olancha Peak - East Face

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sierraman

 
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Olancha Peak - East Face

by sierraman » Sat May 20, 2017 4:17 am

I'm finding it frustratingly difficult to find any information on an ascent of Olancha Peak via the East Face. Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by sierraman on Thu Jun 08, 2017 5:15 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Romain

 
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Re: Olancha Peak - East Face

by Romain » Sun May 21, 2017 7:09 am

Would be a bushwhack nightmare, I suspect, followed by scree and loose stuff. I've not been, but here's a picture looking down East from the summit last Nov:
https://goo.gl/photos/U5NKnJCA7VBYooVi7
Best I can do...

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Climber Dave

 
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Re: Olancha Peak - East Face

by Climber Dave » Wed Jun 07, 2017 6:20 pm

Just curious if you, or anybody went up that way.
I have some friends who were looking at Olancha from the west, from the PCT.
Anybody know the snow level in the area? Is it consolidated yet?

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asmrz

 
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Re: Olancha Peak - East Face

by asmrz » Wed Jun 07, 2017 10:00 pm

I don't know how much help this might be, but

Friend of mine, Michael Gordon and a partner put up 10-12 pitch route on the right side of the East Face as you look at it from Olancha township. The route is about 10+ and pretty bold climbing. It does not go to the summit. It is on the largest face you see from 395 in Olancha. Some pitches have bolts. I might have a topo here somewhere.

My wife Penelope and I looked at the series of ridges coming down from Olancha Peak and wondered if we could connect them all from the canyon. As you look at the east side of the peak at least two if not three ridges rise from the (extreme) right side (looking from the Ranch House Cafe). The ridges look like technical climbing. It was just another of my crazy ideas some years ago, but we never tried it. I think it would be a mini-expedition.

I'm not aware of any other routes on the east side of the peak. Once I had a chat with Doug Thompson of Whitney Portal Cafe and he told me that possibly, Peter Croft might have done some "scrambling" up there. Not confirmed, though.

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H2SO4

 
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Re: Olancha Peak - East Face

by H2SO4 » Thu Jun 08, 2017 5:18 pm

If you happen to find that topo, I'd be interested...I admire all the rock up there whenever I drive up the 395 in the daylight, but I've never been exploring.

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asmrz

 
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Re: Olancha Peak - East Face

by asmrz » Thu Jun 08, 2017 5:48 pm

Regarding the topo.

I have pretty large library of documents and photos dealing with Sierra Nevada, Sequoia NP, Kings Canyon NP, Joshua Tree, Domelands and Needles. If you want to climb the route now and specifically need this topo, I would try to locate it. But if you are just interested in the matter, I simply don't have time to search for it. I hope you understand.

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H2SO4

 
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Re: Olancha Peak - East Face

by H2SO4 » Thu Jun 08, 2017 7:44 pm

Ah - no worries; I won't be in California again until September and I'm not sure where all I'll be climbing then. If the "pretty bold" part is the 5.10+, then it's probably above my pay grade anyway.

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sierraman

 
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Re: Olancha Peak - East Face

by sierraman » Sat Jun 10, 2017 3:30 am

Image
Similar to H2SO4, I have also considered the climbing possibilities on the East face of Olancha on innumerable drives up and down 395. Considering it's proximity relative to other peaks further north, you would think there would be more climbing activity.

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Ben FR

 
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Re: Olancha Peak - East Face

by Ben FR » Mon Jun 12, 2017 4:36 pm

Any thoughts on whether or not it would be possible to follow the southern part of Olancha Creek rather than tackling the east face directly?


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