Conditions on Aconcagua- Ibanez-Marmillod, Polish Glacier

Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
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Diggler

 
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Conditions on Aconcagua- Ibanez-Marmillod, Polish Glacier

by Diggler » Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:11 pm

Hope to do the Ibanez-Marmillod (SW ridge, Grajales Couloir, ...), starting in about a week. Curious about the snow conditions- for travel as well as water en route. Anyone been up there or know the current conditions? Back-up plan is the Polish Glacier direct. Ice conditions, in this case- all ice, still some snow left, ...? Also, is it a maze of monster crevasses, just a few to look out for, or just a sheet of smooth, unfissured ice?

Personal knowledge best, information on others/guides who might provide good information would be greatly appreciated too. Thanks!

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Tue Jan 15, 2008 4:11 am

Have you tried contacting the guiding services in Mendoza like INKA or Xperience Aconcagua for up to date conditions?

My contact at XA is Eduardo Soler, Phone +54-261-4231806 or info@aconcagua-xperience.com.ar

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livenbig

 
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by livenbig » Tue Jan 15, 2008 4:15 am

Eduardo is always in the know, I second asking him. And while you are at it book mules with him, the company he works for owns 3 out of 4 mules on the mountain.

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Diggler

 
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by Diggler » Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:03 pm

Thanks guys- will do!

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William Marler

 
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by William Marler » Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:23 pm

My friends returned from a successful Aconcagua trip on the10th of January. Summited on the 5th I believe. The Canaleta had nice crusty compact snow that they could crampon up and down easily. As a matter of fact they used crampons the whole Polish traverse route. Made it much easier not having to stop to put them on at the base of the Canaleta.
Things may have changes by now but this was the story 2 weeks ago.

Just trekking in the area now costs 75 dollars. No one is allowed past Casa Piedra anymore for conservation reasons. So the Guanico (SP) route is closed untill further notice.


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