I will be in the Caucasus for 10 days in June 2008 with a couple climbing partners. I was told by a couple russian sources that Ushba, the Matterhorn of the Caucasus, is off limit and approaching the mountain would get me in prison (captured either by the russian or by the georgian military)....of course, I would rather avoid this inconvenient situation.


I was wondering if any of you out there have attempted/climbed Ushba from the North (Russian side...which is also the easiest route). And if you did, how your party got there without ending up in prison. Or if you know a contact person on site who could get us through. APPRECIATED!

Come on, I am sure there is a climber or two out there who gave Ushba a shot ...or maybe got shot on Ushba
Any experience is good to share.

You may try to phone the Georgia Tourist Board, check the Foreign Office travel advice or phone their nearest embassy.

These are some links I collected while planning a ski trip (for next year), they may be useful:

http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travelling-and ... e/georgia/

http://www.exploregeorgia.com/en/index.html

http://www.tourism.gov.ge/geo/

http://www.caucasus-randonnee.org/

Hello.

I have climbed Ushba peak in 2004. So, I tell the informations from that time.
But first I have to say that the route is very beautiful, the view also, a 10+ climb. Not hard but my favorite climb outside Romanian mountains.
So, you need to register to mountain rescue team in Schelda camp, on the road to Adil Su valey. From this camp start the aproach to schelda glacier. The problem is that they don `t understand and speak english. You will inform them about your plan and also about Ushba climb that in case to know about your trip. They will give to you a paper for border crossing. On that paper don`t write nothing about climbing Ushba!!!!!!
After 1 hour from Schelda camp you will reach a military base where you will give the mountain rescue paper, the military paper for climbing in Caucasus, and you passport!!!! They will give you back the papers and passport when you will be back from the mountains. Don`t tell nothing about climbing Ushba, tell them only climbing Schelda, treking, ......
On Shelda valey, on german bivuac place if you have luck you will meet some mountain rescue team members, and you will hear some jazz music from Kopilov saxophone -mountain rescue member.
Have a nice climb!!!!!

Very good beta Cristakhe! Thank you and congratulation on your Ushba ascent.
I will see if I can obtain the proper authorization once in Russia...I will try to find someone who can translate for us on site...
If there is any Russian speaking climber who would be interesed in joining us on Ushba and Elbrus June 10-19 this year, PM me.