Greetings to everyone here on Summit Post and the collected wealth of knowledge contained by it's many members. I've been trawling round the internet trying to find as much info as I can and I'm aware there's plenty out there but thought it would be much easier to ask questions directly in a post.

I'm working in Peru from the 28th June to the 28th July but from the 28th July right through to the 10th Sept my time is my own. I'm looking to climb for a fair portion of that time in the Cordillera Blanca, how easy is it going to be to find partners out there? Is it something I should organise prior to departure or will I find levels of promiscuity that would make a whore blush? Where is best to base myself?

I'm looking to hopefully do some climbing peaks, I rock climb here consistently at E1 (5.10a for those stateside), E3 at best, have climbed a few sport routes upto 7b at most. I have a few years winter experience gained climbing on our little Scottish mountains on routes upto IV, and a couple trips on pure ice at WI4/5. What would be some good objectives? I've only trekked at altitude before 5500m in the Himalaya but coped pretty well.

I'm quite psyched for doing some big wall stuff but would probably need some form of apprenticeship under somebody more experienced. It would mean taking loads of rock gear over with me, and there's already a huge stack of kit. Would it be worth just taking some extra quickdraws for sport climbing, is there much to be done there?

Also I'm just finishing up working in a shop so can get relatively cheap gear and want to make the most of it to get kitted out. By the same measure I don't want to go too overkill and end up with loads of overspecced kit (for the most part my winter climbing will be in Scotland).

Looking at getting or currently have;;

Boots; Looking at buying La Sportiva Baturas (too warm?? should i go with the nepal evo gtx instead, could possibly boost with supergaiters?)

Crampons; Looking at buying Petzl Sarken (currently have DMM Terminators but shit for walking in)

Axes; Black Diamond Reactors (like climbing leashless but will get a grivel springleash thing, they plunge ok for leashless style tools in soft snow)

Sleeping Bag; Looking at buying a Marmot Lithium bag, is this too warm? Or not warm enough for some of the bigger peaks e.g Alpamayo? Would a Marmot Helium be ok? Will have a down jacket (or should I take synthetic) to boost the warmth.

Sleeping Mat, will get a slightly thicker and warmer Thermarest I think.

Tent,

how wild is the weather at the bases of the climbs? Do you need a really decent storm tent? Do people tend to bivvy on the routes themselves and dig snow shelters? Or lug a tent up with them?

Should I take a single or a half rope out with me? What do most people tend to use? I would assume half ropes for the convenience of longer abs when necessitated. Could possibly purchase one of these new funky rated for half, sinle and double use ropes I've seen kicking about like the Joker. As said previously I'd be interested in doing some sport and trad climbing.

Any bits of gear that are a must? Classic climbs it would be a sin to skip? Horrible sandbags or busy routes to avoid. All advice will be greatly appreciated

There are tons of questions in your post, but I'll do my best to give some answers. These are just my opinions on the subject. Others will undoubtedly vary.

1. Finding partners should be relatively easy at that time of year. You can post a message at the Casa di Guias in Huaraz. Huaraz has plenty of accommodations and serves well as a base. You will have a more difficult time finding a partner if you are trying to find someone that is essentially a guide (i.e. "apprenticeship"). Guide services are available and can be affordable. Quality varies.

2. There is not a ton of developed rock climbing in the Cordillera Blanca itself. What is there is usually difficult (> 5.10). There is some other stuff in the area, including sport routes at places such as Hatun Machay. A pretty decent amount of rock info can be found here: http://toposperu.wordpress.com/huaraz/

3. Baturas will work fine. The Nepals would probably limit you to peaks less than 6,000 m unless your feet stay very warm.

4. A zero degree (F) bag is commonly used in the CB. Temperatures at high camps can reach that temperature.

5. The conditions are generally good, but as always you should have shelter for a storm. What you feel comfortably with is up to you. I've used a lightweight 4 season tent.

6. You will want a rope setup that allows for full length raps. The specific system you use is again your preference.

7. The other gear you list would be fine. It's really personal preference.

8. I recommend Brad Johnson's "Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca" for more information about classic routes and the range in general.

Many thanks for the reply MRoyer4.

1. Just to clarify I'm a pretty confident climber and would only be looking for some apprenticeship style partner if taking on some big wall style climbing involving aid which is unfamiliar to me at the moment. Though I'm mega psyched to learn. A friend has just scored a sweet job out in Santa Cruz and I fully intend to visit him for an extended trip to check out Yosemite.

2. Thanks for the link, just what I needed. Are most of the routes on the site bolted or pure trad? Keen to possibly project something at my limit round the 8a sport mark as I've never spent much time working routes before. Looks like there's enough to occupy a couple weeks at least.

3. Thanks for the boot info, could possibly look at getting the Spantniks (big step up in price even at trade) or some Asolo Plastics as well. What have other people found to work? What did you use Mr Royer?? ?

8. Have already bought the book in question, seems really good though I'm yet to delve into greater depth in it. Also have bought the John Biggar Andes book which seems to have some good info.

Keep any advice you may have coming guys. Would be nice to hear from anyone who's heading out these season as well

The only rock climbing I've done in Peru is at Hatun Machay. That is all bolted. It's a pretty cool place with lots of options for harder climbs. You can arrange transportation in Huaraz from the guy who owns/runs it (I forget the name of the shop). There is a van every morning and evening. You can camp at the site for a small fee. The fee includes use of a stove in a small cabin. It's about 3 hours from Huaraz, if I remember correctly.

There's been a fair amount of rock climbing activity in the Ishinca valley recently. I think some of it is written up in the AAJ. I think it's in the 5.12 range (7b/7c).

I used Asolo AFS8000's last year and was glad to have them (although I know my feet get colder than most). The temps aren't bad, but being a bit sick I wasn't getting much nourishment which I'm sure didn't help keep me warm. I've since replaced the Asolos with Spantiks and will be using them down there this year. They will be a bit overkill, but I bought them to use in colder environments. Hot feet don't bother me. They are great boots, much more comfortable than the Asolos, in my opinion.

Plenty of people looking for partners in Huaraz, so you should have no problem there. The gear you mentioned seems suitable for the typical conditions found in the range. I know two people who will be down there at that time who are planning a climb of the Esfinge, which is a pretty serious rock climb. If interested, I could set you up with them over the Internet/Facebook, at the very least to get info and perhaps make a connection so that they turn you on to other people more interested in rock or if one of them bails, you might have a partner for that peak.
The Cordillera Blanca is mostly known for its snow/ice. I will be down there the same time as you if you want to hook up for some climbs. PM me if interested.

Yes, yes fucking yes! Many thanks Jbetoo, I'm definitely interested in big rock routes though as said before not done any big walls before. From looking here;

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... phinx.html

it seems there's some good potential for free climbing, though the grades could be sandbags from the Brits knowing a bit of the British attitude to these things. If you could get me in contact with your friends it would be appreciated.

Hope to be doing a mix of rock and snow/ice routes so interested in partnering up for other peaks with yourself. Have you any particular objectives in mind?

Stu