Regional discussion and conditions reports for the great state of Utah, from the alpine peaks to the desert slots. Please post partners requests and trip plans here or in the Utah Climbing Partners section.
Does anyone know the current condition of the ice routes in the wasatch mountains, specifically little cottonwood, and stairway to heaven. I just got into ice climbing this winter, and want to go out one more time before the seasons' over.
Great White Icicle was still pretty good when we did it Thursday (I think it was Thursday). Still getting plenty of traffic.
Stairway to Heaven's first two pitches were still in this week when I looked. The third pitch has a huge crack all the way across it and the fifth pitch looks lean. The first two look good, and the top-roping area on the first pitch (the first tier) looks fat enough to last awhile.
Do you think the routes will still be climbable this upcoming saturday? The weather man says it will be pretty warm this week, but I hope it will be colder in the mountains. Also, when you looked at stairway to heaven, did you happen to see what kind of shape the bridal falls routes were in, I would like to try white nightmare if it's still there.
Man, I don't know. You could definitely do the first pitch of Stairway still on Saturday. We did the first two pitches of Stairway and White Nightmare today. It was raining in the valley, snowing up there, but it was a wet snow.
White Nightmare is starting to get thinner in sections. I wouldn't get on it on Saturday....it was sounding pretty hollow and detached already. After a few days of warm weather and some rain, it'll be pretty risky.
I'd stick to the first pitch of Stairway and take a look at the second one if you're up there. It's similar to White Nightmare in a lot of ways (WI4, curtain), and it might still be in. I know some people did all 5 pitches today, but the 3rd has a crack across it that might be ugly by next Saturday.
As for other climbs....
Bridal Veil Right is probably thicker than White Nightmare, but I think its getting a lot of water spray and that's affecting the ice. Might have to look further afield....Joe's Valley or Santaquin (if avy conditions ever settle down). Not sure how those areas are these days.