Not too long ago I posted a question about how to glue my Nepal Evo soles back on. I got some fantastic responses, and I found that barge cement + wrapping in electrical or duct tape while the glue set was the best way. The opinions of the cobbler from Seattle and a couple of reputable members from my club list were that products like Shoe Goo should not be used because they are primarily caulking agents and not adhesives, so I didn't even try them. I did try superglue (both the runny and gel kinds), but in my comparison with barge cement I hardly kept use and quality of application constant.
After cleaning with alcohol, wrapping in tape, and letting the glues set for > 24 hrs, the barge cement seemed to last for ~1 hard day, whereas the superglue seemed to last for ~1/2 day. Their use was split more or less evenly between approaches and climbing rock and ice. I reapplied the glue about six times since my last post in October.
The soles have detached yet again, and I now find myself likely going to the Cordillera Blanca this summer. Since I'm on a budget this year, I wanted opinions on whether these sloppy boots are salvageable and appropriate for stuff to 6500 m or if I should drop some money on a new pair. Current pictures of the boots are below. In particular, I wanted to know if you think I can trust a repair job from a professional cobbler to keep the soles attached for one month of hard use; I'm not sure I should trust the cobbler's opinion, which is why I'm asking you guys! I'm concerned that my six botched jobs will affect the reliability of the cobbler's work, and indeed if under even the best circumstances the cobbler could use a magical glue or technique which would keep the soles on for more than a couple days. I have a pair of cheap, large-fitting double plastics (Invernos), and although they would surely suffice in warmth, I just don't feel as confident with them on hard terrain as I do in modern boots.
I have found only 1 source of information on alpine dry season lows in Peru, which says they're usually -20C to -5C. Since we will be climbing or rappelling at night sometimes, it's important for my boots to be warm enough for those temperatures. I've seen pictures of lots of folks at 6000m in the CB wearing the Nepals, but when I used mine on the East Buttress of Whitney late last November, I got the screaming barfies early in the day when it was about -10C... not a good sign, and I can't exactly test other sock configurations or heat packs because winter has left us. Can you provide input on realistic low temperatures in the CB--for instance, 1st to 3rd quartile lows on a solid high pressure day during which I might climb some TD ish route, perhaps some of it at night? I'm sort of open to getting new boots, particularly something I can continue to use in cold, technical climbing (like the Baruntses or Spantiks), but obviously I'd prefer to keep my old Nepals.
The above two pictures are of the same boot. The other boot's sole has held on a bit longer--2 trips since the last barge, I think--but it's still suspect since it was glued on a ton of times before. Here it is:
Thanks for your input!