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Sweden: Sarek or Kebnekaise?

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Sweden: Sarek or Kebnekaise?

Postby ferdinandverboom » Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:17 pm

Hey,

Next summer I'm going to Sweden. I want to hike in Sarek or the Kebnekaise region. Which of the two is more worth visiting? Where's the most stunning/unspoiled nature and the fewest amount of people? Of course climbing Sweden's highpoint attracts me...
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Postby nattfodd » Thu Jan 14, 2010 1:17 pm

Sarek is, by far, the wildest. Kungsleden is very nice but also well managed and sees a lot of traffic over the summer (at least in the northern parts). On the other hand, it can be difficult to move around Sarek (not necessarily many paths) and you really need to be autonomous, as no one will come and get you (unless you bring a sat-phone...).

Whatever you choose, you'll probably have a great time. It's an amazingly beautiful region.
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Postby damgaard » Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:32 am

If you want to avoid the crowds go to Sarek. Kebnekaise Fjällstation (mtn hostel) at the foot of mountain sees a lot a helicopter traffic during summmer amd there is a boat sailing people in there as well = plenty of people.

If you go outside peak season it is not so bad. I was there in mid September, last week in the summer season, and there were less than 20 people at the hostel and we were only 3 on the top (ok it was snow storm, that might have been why...)

But it is beautiful up there, both Sarek and Kebnekaise
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Re: Sweden: Sarek or Kebnekaise?

Postby cb294 » Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:43 am

ferdinandverboom wrote:Hey,

Next summer I'm going to Sweden. I want to hike in Sarek or the Kebnekaise region. Which of the two is more worth visiting? Where's the most stunning/unspoiled nature and the fewest amount of people? Of course climbing Sweden's highpoint attracts me...


Sarek,

no question. Kebnekaise can be rather crowded, in Sarek you may go days without seeing anyone if you stay of the main traverse.

CB
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Postby soderkisen » Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:34 am

Go for Sarek, as everyone said! It is remote, quiet and unspoiled...

Sarektjåkkå 2089m
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thnx

Postby ferdinandverboom » Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:00 pm

Tack så mycket för svara :-)

I still haven't decided yet. To do the kungsleden Abisko trail to Kebnekaise is more on our route (we are coming from Umeå and want to go to the Lofoten before we're heading south again).
I've checked the Sarek page. Indeed a great area. I've still have some questions:

- What about the routes on Kebnekaise and Sarektjåkka? Are there crevasses on the glaciers? Do you need crampons, rope, iceaxe? On the one hand the more difficult the better, on the other: I'm not happy looking forward to bear all the climbing-gear for a week besides all the other stuff...

- Is there a real difference in flora and fauna and mountains between the Kebnekaise region and Sarek, or is it just the amount of people and the remoteness which makes the difference?

- How many days does it take to hike to Sarektjåkka from the nearest reacheble place by car?


Whatever we're going to do, I'm very looking forward to our trip. And we're also going to visit the Lofoten, Lyngen and more.
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Postby nattfodd » Wed Feb 03, 2010 12:25 am

There are two routes on Kebnekaise: the western one is just a scree hike, 3rd class all the way with a tiny bit of snow at the very top. You definitely don't need any climbing gear. The eastern way is supposed to be more difficult, but my impression (disclaimer: I haven't been on it, this is only from hearsay) was that it actually wasn't that bad, some low 5th class and a few glacier crossings, but that you only really need crampons and ice axe if you want to traverse the summits.
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Kebnekeise

Postby damgaard » Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:04 am

As Nattfodd said the western approach is easy. There is a path most of the way and no special equipment required. No glacier corssing, only snow. Navigation can be a bit tricky on the last part through the snow in whiteout conditions so bring compass or GPS. We spent 8-9 hours up/down from the Fjällstation on this route, but I think they normally say it takes a bit longer.
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Postby ferdinandverboom » Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:39 pm

I think we probably will take the route from Abisko to Kebnekaise, but not via the main Kungsledentrail, but an alternative route (maybe through the visttasvaggi valley), where it will probably be less crowded.
I Think we will approach the Kebnekaise then from the east. Two questions about that:

Do you guys know what the state of the glaciers are? Many crevasses?
There is a rock climbing section graded 5. Which grade system?

Thanx a lot for your replies and information. I'm very looking forward to our visit of the high north!
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Postby nattfodd » Sun Feb 14, 2010 11:15 pm

ferdinandverboom wrote:There is a rock climbing section graded 5. Which grade system?


It's probably a Swedish grade, which is basically a sandbagged UIAA. Swedish 5 would be somewhere around 5.8 in YDS.
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Kebnekaise

Postby fquiquet » Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:46 pm

Hi guys,

I would like to know if it’s possible to climb kebnekaise during the winter (march or April) and how many chances I have to reach the summit ?

What is the necessary equipment for this climb ?

Best Regards

François
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Re: Kebnekaise

Postby nattfodd » Wed Mar 17, 2010 12:18 am

fquiquet wrote:Hi guys,

I would like to know if it’s possible to climb kebnekaise during the winter (march or April) and how many chances I have to reach the summit ?

What is the necessary equipment for this climb ?

Best Regards

François


I haven't heard of people doing that, and I expect you would have a pretty bad time with all the snow. It would probably make more sense to ski it, though I have no idea if this is feasible.

Be aware that Lappland in winter is no joke. It's very big, very wild, very isolated and can get very, very, very cold. Storms are frequent, too, and rescue is going to be difficult if possible at all, so you need to be very experienced in arctic winter travel to even get to the foot of Kebnekaise.

Edit: checked your profile and it seems that you actually know what you're doing and are well aware of the risks, so you can disregard my previous comments. :)
For a solo winter climb of the Western route, and based on what it looks like in the summer, I would expect that the gear you need would basically be snowshoes, crampons and an ice axe (for self arrest). There is no crevasse risk, and you don't need belays anywhere, so no rope or pro needed.
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Re: Kebnekaise

Postby karpaterna » Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:03 am

fquiquet wrote:Hi guys,

I would like to know if it’s possible to climb kebnekaise during the winter (march or April) and how many chances I have to reach the summit ?

What is the necessary equipment for this climb ?

Best Regards

François


I'm climbing the peak in two weeks - with skis. I haven't done it before, but some friends have and they claim it's not too difficult. So it should be OK if you use snow-shoes...

Bring a warm sleeping bag - if you are suprised by sudden bad weater, then there is an emergency shelter you can stay in, not far from the peak (it's called "toppstugan").

From the Kebnekaise fjällstation (the hotel in the valley below) there are guided tours up to the peak as well, that you can join if you are uncertain...
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Postby alexey » Sat Apr 03, 2010 4:42 pm

Climbing Kebnekaise in winter is neither remote nor especially hard. There're plenty of options, those from Kebnekaise fjallstation/Tarfala hut (easily accessible from "civilisation) include (grading is how I feel the routes relate to the likes in the Alps):
1) Western route F - on skis and on feet, boring
2) Eastern route PD - a ca 250 m snow gully of approx. 30-40 degr, probably some short steeper bit, fixed ropes (sometimes the lowest one along the approach ledges is taken away by the guides in order not to tempt less experienced people to try it). After topping out very near the hut (toppstugan) ca 1,5 km walk on the summit plateau.
3) Pallin coulouir (haven't done myself) PD - snow gully of more or less same steepness, but longer.
4) Nygren's route to N. summit - AD - snow and mixed, not hard, but rather long.
5) East ridge to N. summit (haven't done myself) - guess it would be D in winter, harder mixed climbing than the previous one.
6) via Halspasset PD+-AD first some tiresome snow, then 2-3 pitches easy mixed climbing, then along the plateau to N. summit
The ridge between N. and S. summit is rather narrow, I'd rope up.
Averagely fit party should be able to complete all of those in one day, probably with the exception of no 5). Starting from Tarfala hut approaching via Isfallsglaciaren saves you some 500 alt.m. and a couple of hours.
Good luck!
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sarek

Postby ferdinandverboom » Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:33 pm

Hey guys,

Eventually, we have been in Sarek. It was very cool! And wild. We walked a few days off track, saw no other people, etc. Never been in such wilderness before I guess. We have had very nice weather, no rain at all. The only bad thing were the musquitos..
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