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Boots for high altitude technical routes

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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby Hotoven » Tue Nov 30, 2010 6:29 pm

Image

la sportiva spantik, but I though you already asked this question? Everyones different, some people go up that high in really old out dated boots and do great. Others buy the top of the line boots people use on Everest. I plan on getting a pair of spantiks in the next year for Acon. and then use them again for Denali. If they are not warm enough just get an over boot.
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby ERdiesel » Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:04 pm

I second the spantiks. Not exactly high altitude but wore mine up Mt. Washington in NH last winter where it gets notoriously cold up there to the point where it mimics the weather of much higher mountains (-20 F to -40 F or lower is fairly routine, especially at night and with the infamously high winds) and wound up spending the night in a snow cave during a storm. They kept my feet warm, and dried out well that night in the snow cave. The only thing that failed me that night were my handwear (had both hestra heli guide gloves as well as OR alti mitts) but I just couldn't keep my hands warm or dry.
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby sharperblue » Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:30 pm

Definitely the LsSpantiks, or the LsBaruntse's (a slightly cheaper, heavier version of the same boot). There are several threads on this topic. Like Hotoven said, a lot depends on your personal comfort level (eg, blood circulation) - the classic combo of Scarpa Invernos customized with Intuition liners and overboots (eg, Denali) likely won't cut it for that altitude and the need to do technical climbing. With the sole exception of early mornings, my feet were sweating in Spantiks at 6400m even before sunrise, and my circulation is about average. For what it's worth, my opinion would be: play it very conservatively, and so be prepared for the worst possible situation/condition/weather. In other words, go overkill on the footwear, even if you can get by with a cheaper and less warm alternative (although that's unlikley for 7000m; there just aren't that many choices out there for that altitude, so by default you'll almost certainly be buying something top of the line from Mammut or LS.)
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby welle » Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:35 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:Dude why didn't you just drive to the top? There is a perfect road I heard? :)))) jk


the road is closed in the winter, but you can take a snowcat up.
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby superstylin » Tue Nov 30, 2010 10:17 pm

What 7000m peak are you hoping to climb? And how high have you been previously?
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby ScottyP » Tue Nov 30, 2010 11:14 pm

SPantiks were more than fine for me on Denali but there is no technical climbing to be done on the WB route I was on. If I was planning on going a lot higher (Besides Aco in January) I think I would move to a system boot i.e. Mons
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby ScottyP » Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:17 am

Vitaliy, drive up to Santa Rosa and join me for a headlamp hike up Hood tonight! (Caught in a great snow-storm Saturday morning on St Helena!)
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby ExcitableBoy » Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:23 am

The late, great, beautiful Joe Puryear on Spantiks: http://puryearpicks.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... boots.html
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby sharperblue » Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:59 am

ExcitibleBoy wrote:The late, great, beautiful Joe Puryear on Spantiks: http://puryearpicks.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... boots.html


Man, he rocked. Thanks for the link, too
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby CBakwin » Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:54 pm

I've used the Olympus Mons at high altitude with severe cold temps (-27 range) and also done technical ice climbing in them, they work fine.
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby ScottyP » Wed Dec 01, 2010 4:18 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:Hope you had Spantiks when you got caught in that snow storm.


Nah! Just my trusty Asolos. I will start hiking in the Spantiks two weks prior to leaving in January. Perhaps I will meet you at Mission sometime. I am getting VERY bored of Hood twice a week!
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby ScottyP » Thu Dec 09, 2010 4:19 am

Group trainings ? Can I come along ?
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Re: Boots for high altitude technical routes

Postby etai101 » Thu Dec 09, 2010 2:51 pm

for those three summits spantiks would do great plus those mountains are no that technical as far as technical goes khan tengri is the most chalenging and you have fixed line through out the climb which takes the edge off most of the technical parts.
i have aa freind who climed kahn tengri with a pair of lsBaturas and over boots and he was fine.
as far as i see it for high alltitude tech boot you got the choises above and the boreal g1 light or the new g1 which are also great and almost as worm.

i know what youre getting for xmas :)
cheers
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