Pretty interesting study:
http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/ ... everly.pdf
Can anyone here explain in plain English what their conclusions were the angle of screw placement? What are they talking about when they say not to place the screw at a negative angle? They say that the optimum angle of placement is between 8 and 16 degrees. Does that mean that you place the screw with the tip higher than the hanger or do you place the screw with the tip lower than the hanger?
When I first started ice climbing, I had read that you always have the hanger angled a little higher than the tip. Since then, however, I've read that you should do the opposite, and place the screw with a slight downslope with the hanger slightly lower than the tip.
I can't figure out what this article is recommending.
Nevermind. With the help of this other article (link below,) I figured it out. Still recommending to place the screw with a downslope with the hanger slightly lower than the tip. (I guess that this is a "positive" angle.) Nice to see that there is some consistency in conclusions.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... Jkxnwfx8og