by j4ever » Thu Nov 08, 2012 2:18 pm
by Buz Groshong » Thu Nov 08, 2012 2:39 pm
by MoapaPk » Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:08 pm
by Buz Groshong » Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:18 pm
MoapaPk wrote:Another vote for seam grip (urethane, NOT silicone seam seal)-- but I first use nylon thread, lightly hand-sewn in a coil down the length of the rip. The thread isn't there to provide strength; the thread forms a network to hold the seam grip. Don't pull the thread tight-- just enough to lie almost flat across rip.
by MoapaPk » Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:45 pm
Buz Groshong wrote:MoapaPk wrote:Another vote for seam grip (urethane, NOT silicone seam seal)-- but I first use nylon thread, lightly hand-sewn in a coil down the length of the rip. The thread isn't there to provide strength; the thread forms a network to hold the seam grip. Don't pull the thread tight-- just enough to lie almost flat across rip.
Better to use the stitch they use to repair sails than a coil.
by MoapaPk » Thu Nov 08, 2012 5:18 pm
by JHH60 » Thu Nov 08, 2012 5:45 pm
by MoapaPk » Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:17 pm
by mrchad9 » Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:20 pm
JHH60 wrote:(and crampon cuts in your gaiters may not be something you want to advertise as they are very common among new climbers).
PellucidWombat wrote:armchair mountaineers such as yourself
by jthomas » Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:41 pm
The Chief wrote:Another tip.....
Place a layer of FREE SOLE on the rip, then apply a strip of this stuff over it:
After the first application of the FREE SOLE dries, apply another thin layer over the Tape.
by JHH60 » Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:11 pm
MoapaPk wrote:The principal difference among McNett* seam grip, aquaseal and free sole is viscosity. They are all urethanes that cure to be flexible and abrasion-resistant. The amount of solvent varies in the product line (but is less than in most other glues), but all need a tiny bit of moisture (supplied by air) for the final cure.
Free sole is the most viscous, and seam grip is the least viscous.
by Buz Groshong » Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:35 pm
by Buz Groshong » Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:40 pm
JHH60 wrote:Duck tape on your outerwear does give you the genuine dirtbag climber look, though sewing and seam grip is more durable (and crampon cuts in your gaiters may not be something you want to advertise as they are very common among new climbers).
One caveat - if you are repairing a cut in a waterproof breathable fabric that has an exposed membrane on the inside (e.g., Paclite Gore Tex), don't put duck tape on the inside (on the membrane) as a temporary repair. I learned the hard way that the membrane often sticks better to duck tape than it does to the original fabric, and peels off when you peel off the tape to make a permanent repair. Obviously, without the membrane the fabric loses its waterproofness, and you then have to either sew in a whole new piece of fabric, or seal up the area where the membrane came off with more seam grip or duck tape...
by Buz Groshong » Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:44 pm
MoapaPk wrote:Unsightly example-- I pulled too tight at the bottom.
by JHH60 » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:09 pm
Buz Groshong wrote:JHH60 wrote:One caveat - if you are repairing a cut in a waterproof breathable fabric that has an exposed membrane on the inside (e.g., Paclite Gore Tex), don't put duck tape on the inside (on the membrane) as a temporary repair. I learned the hard way that the membrane often sticks better to duck tape than it does to the original fabric, and peels off when you peel off the tape to make a permanent repair. Obviously, without the membrane the fabric loses its waterproofness, and you then have to either sew in a whole new piece of fabric, or seal up the area where the membrane came off with more seam grip or duck tape...
So just use duct tape as the permanent repair!
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