Does anyone else have this issue?
It dawned on me at the crag yesterday that i climb cracks and gear routes much better than i do face/sport routes. I feel very fluid on 5.9/5.10 gear routes but flail a little on and 5.10 and above face climbs.
by AdamsKerr » Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:27 pm
by Matt Lemke » Sun Apr 14, 2013 8:11 pm
by WyomingSummits » Sun Apr 14, 2013 9:51 pm
by Kahuna » Mon Apr 15, 2013 1:06 am
by Burchey » Mon Apr 15, 2013 1:28 am
Kahuna wrote:Anybody can climb cracks.
by Kahuna » Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:10 am
by Burchey » Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:15 am
by Kahuna » Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:28 am
Burchey wrote:Got it. So it's what happens when you're over your head. I don't pull on gear, so I wasn't in that mindset, I guess.
by Burchey » Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:37 am
Kahuna wrote:Burchey wrote:Got it. So it's what happens when you're over your head. I don't pull on gear, so I wasn't in that mindset, I guess.
It is how one pushes through a certain "comfort" dead zone.
One must also be prepared to take whippers as well.
Unless of course they wish to remain at a certain level of climbing and never improve their climbing abilities thus never moving onto the next higher level.
That too is a well known fact of the process.
Get these two powerful reads and you may just learn something about improving your climbing and moving onto a higher level/grade:
by Kahuna » Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:47 am
by Burchey » Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:50 am
by TimB » Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:59 am
by Kahuna » Mon Apr 15, 2013 3:11 am
TimB wrote:As a new climber, I find slab climbing more intimidating than cracks or places with good jugs, pockets, whatever. One thing I do like about slabs(at least at the 5.6-5.7 level) is how well your feet 'stick' when you trust your feet... It's kind of an eye-opener.
by Burchey » Mon Apr 15, 2013 3:14 am
Kahuna wrote:Precisely Tim.
That is why all my first and second time students do nothing but slab. Just as I and so many others before did when they first started.
Proper and Precise Footwork is 80% of ones physical climbing ability.
Any World Class climber will tell you that.
by WyomingSummits » Mon Apr 15, 2013 3:23 am
Kahuna wrote:No need to. Self explanatory.
Any true slabhead knows and understands this very simple principal.
If a crack scenario gets too difficult or above ones climbing ability, they can simply french free or pull on gear through the tough section.
No French Freeing on a "R" slab route. You either climb or take the long slide.
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