Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Mountaineering, rock climbing, and hiking news.
 

New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby andreeacorodeanu » Thu May 16, 2013 8:58 pm

User Avatar
andreeacorodeanu

 
Posts: 72
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2008 2:35 pm
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Thanked: 6 times in 2 posts

The following user would like to thank andreeacorodeanu for this post
attimount, cosmin, Cy Kaicener, Diego Sahagún, Kiefer

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby attimount » Fri May 17, 2013 5:50 am

Congratulation to Cristina and Cosmin for their successful ascent. I had the opportunity to meet Cosmin in Alaska and have a short conversation.
He is one of the best romanian climber, nowadays and a nice person too.
Bafta.
User Avatar
attimount

 
Posts: 63
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 2:06 am
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Thanked: 6 times in 5 posts

The following user would like to thank attimount for this post
cosmin

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby radson » Fri May 17, 2013 7:40 am

I suspect that peak has been there for quite some time :)
User Avatar
radson

 
Posts: 1937
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:34 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia
Thanked: 109 times in 76 posts

Good year for romanians :).

Postby andreeacorodeanu » Fri May 17, 2013 10:13 am

Also first romanian ascent on Shishapangma:
http://alexgavan.ro/expedition/shishapangma-2013

And now Constantin (Ticu) Lacatusu is in his way for climbing Tsartse, good luck :).
User Avatar
andreeacorodeanu

 
Posts: 72
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2008 2:35 pm
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Thanked: 6 times in 2 posts

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby cosmin » Fri May 17, 2013 1:06 pm

Thank you Andreea and thank you Atti! :)
The trip was super fun.
Brad, damn right - they've even noticed it in '57 when they climbed Machhapuchhare and did not look that young then either; In any case, lucky us for the privilege ;)

C
User Avatar
cosmin

 
Posts: 24
Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:23 pm
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Thanked: 3 times in 1 post

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby cosmin » Wed May 29, 2013 11:17 pm

Attachments
Topo GC.jpg
(c) Cristina Pogacean
Topo GC.jpg (896.39 KiB) Viewed 1493 times
User Avatar
cosmin

 
Posts: 24
Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:23 pm
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Thanked: 3 times in 1 post

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby Vitaliy M. » Thu May 30, 2013 3:40 am

Title of this thread is misleading. This peak remains un-climbed, they did not summit. It is a new line on an un-climbed peak.
User Avatar
Vitaliy M.

 
Posts: 1011
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:23 am
Location: San Francisco, California, United States
Thanked: 287 times in 215 posts

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby Scott » Thu May 30, 2013 4:00 am

This peak remains un-climbed, they did not summit.


The article makes it sound like they did the climb, but stopped a few feet from the summit because it was a sacred mountain. Such is often customary in the Himalaya. For example, for several decades, climbers were asked to stop a few feet short of the summit of Kanchenjunga to avoid offending the gods. On all climbs where they did this (supposedly the true summit wasn't "defiled" until the 1990's when someone broke the rule) the climbers were given credit for climbing the mountain.

The photo caption makes it sound like they only stopped 1 meter from the summit? Is this correct?
Last edited by Scott on Thu May 30, 2013 4:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
User Avatar
Scott

 
Posts: 7464
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 1:03 pm
Location: Craig, Colorado, United States
Thanked: 573 times in 318 posts

The following user would like to thank Scott for this post
attimount

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby mrchad9 » Thu May 30, 2013 4:07 am

Aren't the gods going to be pissed off either way if you were stomping around in circles without summiting?
User Avatar
mrchad9

 
Posts: 4189
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:01 am
Location: San Ramon, California, United States
Thanked: 1207 times in 818 posts

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby Scott » Thu May 30, 2013 4:14 am

Aren't the gods going to be pissed off either way if you were stomping around in circles without summiting?


Sometimes you don't have to summit to anger the gods. You should read up on the history of Manaslu or the "sauce making" on some of the other peaks.
User Avatar
Scott

 
Posts: 7464
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 1:03 pm
Location: Craig, Colorado, United States
Thanked: 573 times in 318 posts

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby cosmin » Fri May 31, 2013 1:19 am

We stopped 1 m below the summit.

Joe Brown and G Band stopped 1.5 m (5feet) below Kanchenjunga summit - would that be the biggest news now? Actual FA of Kanch not by JB and GB?

Wether the mountain is sacred or not it was not for us to decide. The Govt of Nepal does not register it as such, nor appears as such anywhere - a few locals considered that as it is linked by the ridge to Machhapuchhare it must be and seemed to be for them... (plus the name). Rather than argue why then not Annapurna 3 or Mardi Himal as well we preferred to stop 1 meter below the very top (a customary compromise when local sensitivity is called into discussion). Alternative was to light incense sticks, fly back and say goodbye to $$ spent on permits and access to otherwise a legitimate climb.

As a Catholic I have no opinion on Gods of Summits - only about the beliefs of local people and try to find a reasonable solution.

PS. The Govt of Nepal upon receiving our 2 GPS recordings and summit photos considered the peak summited and issue accordingly certificates.
User Avatar
cosmin

 
Posts: 24
Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:23 pm
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Thanked: 3 times in 1 post

The following user would like to thank cosmin for this post
artrock23, attimount, Kiefer

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby surgent » Fri May 31, 2013 1:58 am

I won't quibble about 1 meter. Congratulations!
User Avatar
surgent

 
Posts: 462
Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2003 2:45 pm
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
Thanked: 88 times in 55 posts

The following user would like to thank surgent for this post
attimount, Kiefer

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby attimount » Sun Jun 02, 2013 7:32 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote:Title of this thread is misleading. This peak remains un-climbed, they did not summit. It is a new line on an un-climbed peak.

Do you really think that they could not make that final 1m (3ft) to reach the thru summit. Think logically before making such an affirmation.
User Avatar
attimount

 
Posts: 63
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 2:06 am
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Thanked: 6 times in 5 posts

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby surgent » Sun Jun 02, 2013 7:58 pm

If the local population has a custom or belief system about the peak, but does not necessarily bar access, then stopping a few feet short of the top seems a reasonable thing to do. I have done the same on some Indian Reservation summits in AZ/UT.

The gods, whoever they may be, caused me to twist my ankle descending Navajo Mtn in Utah a few years ago. I summitted but did not actually tag the top rock, just standing beside it. But I didn't have a permit. It seemed like a fair trade to me.

Consider the scenario that you have climbed many thousands of feet or meters, then get to a broad (non-sacred) summit with a few rock piles and spires here and there, and to the best of your ability you tagged them all, but the terrain is such that you couldn't know for certain if you got the highest one... but you knew for certain you couldn't have missed it by more than a foot. So, do you count the peak as climbed or not? Would any reasonable person debate over such a trivial detail?

If these climbers were 1 m below the summit, but between them and the summit was a deep chasm, then I'd think differently. Here, I believe it is perfectly acceptable what they did and deserve the credit.
User Avatar
surgent

 
Posts: 462
Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2003 2:45 pm
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
Thanked: 88 times in 55 posts

Re: New peak climbed in the Annapurna

Postby artrock23 » Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:25 am

Congrats, Cosmin... that is quite an accomplishment!
User Avatar
artrock23

 
Posts: 121
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 4:26 pm
Location: Laguna Beach, California, United States
Thanked: 157 times in 85 posts

Next

Return to News

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.