Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Europe. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Europe Climbing Partners section.
 

Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby trsummit » Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:24 pm

Hi all,
I know it may sound awkward but I was wondering if anyone had some advice regarding having a solo climbing to mt blanc this summer. I will go for the normal (Gouter) route in this initial trial. What I heard and read about this route is it is not technically difficult but just requires experience and stamina. That is why I am thinking going for that route.

I am doing climbing for a very long time so I do not have any issues with the basics and how tos. I am thinking of going there with a gps to avoid getting lost as I do not know the route very well. I have read a lot about others' experiences and what I understand is it is very crowded at summer time. So, what is the chance of getting lost there or are there already too many people around summer time so I can follow some of the groups and find my way easily? Has anyone tried this before?

Also, are there any very dangerous points to mention for a solo climber? For instance any points that requires more than one person to increase the safety.. (such as being in the same rope etc.)?

Note: If anyone interested for a 2-3 day unguided climbing this summer please let me know.

Thanks a lot.
trsummit

 
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:09 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby pvnisher » Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:01 pm

A GPS will do very little to help you on the route.
If you have good weather and good conditions, and are a competent, experienced climber then it is possible.
The upper summit ridge is windy and a bit narrow. An uncontrolled slide there would hurt. Many sections of the route between the Tete Rousse and Gouter hut are quite steep with some exposure. You may have ice-slicked rock and be wearing crampons. A fall there would hurt.
Crevasses are generally not a big threat on the Gouter route, but are still a possibility. If you vanish into one and no one sees you go in (or you slide a bit and then go in so you're off the track), you might be in a world of hurt.
WIthout knowing your experience and skill level I am not in a position to say that it's either a good idea or a bad idea.
But I found the route to be a little more challenging, both technically and physically, than I was expecting. Some of the guide websites say, "You need no experience, it's an easy walkup." That leads you to believe that it is a cakewalk. It's true that it is not a technical route, but you'll be using your hands to scramble for a good 2-3 hours, followed by a few hours of glacier/ice/semi-steep snow.
If that's not a place you're comfortable solo (I'm not), then take that into consideration.
User Avatar
pvnisher

 
Posts: 135
Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:38 pm
Location: Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Thanked: 27 times in 24 posts

The following user would like to thank pvnisher for this post
trsummit

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby trsummit » Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:45 pm

Hi pvnisher, these are really quite useful advises.. I will consider them for sure. Thanks very much!

Could you also mention about how crowded it is by beginning -mid of June please? Because I am thinking of following the crowd to make sure that I am on the right route as I am climbing solo I do not want to waste my time and energy by losing and trying to find the route back on my own.

Kind Regards
trsummit

 
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:09 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby Flachlandtiroler » Wed Feb 20, 2013 4:26 pm

Mid Juni at 4000+ is still ski touring season i.e. you'll need ski or snowshoes to avoid drowning in deep /soft snow.
At that time of the year the common route is via grands mulets and not via aig. gouter IMHO. For this route the crevasse danger is not neglegible!

The gouter route is easy scrambling as far as the rocks and the fixed ropes below gouter hut are free from snow. Otherwise it might be mixed climbing.

One more threat to be mentioned: bad weather (true blizzards, if you're from US) is coming very abrupt at montblanc massiv.
Flachlandtiroler

 
Posts: 127
Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2002 4:58 am
Thanked: 10 times in 10 posts

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby JASONWSM » Fri Feb 22, 2013 2:55 am

Hi TR Summit, we are booked for a summit attempt from 28th June - 5th July 2013. You are more than welcome to join our group of 10 climbers. We are attempting to summit via the standard normal Gouter route.

Last year we completed the TMB and spent 3 days trying to summit but bad weather conditions kept us at bay. On our 3rd attempt we turned back early hours only to see the Avalanche killed 9 climbers whom we met the night before. Steve Barber, John Taylor and Roger Payne. We return this year in their memory along with the unfortunate others.

Climbing at altitude is dangerous in itself at the best of weathers and climbing alone is even more risky if something goes wrong you've got little back-up to help. A simple slip or break can be the difference between life and death.

Join us this year. https://www.facebook.com/events/146017802220404/
JASONWSM

 
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2013 2:42 am
Location: Weston-super-Mare, Somerset, United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby tomnavratil » Fri Mar 01, 2013 3:43 am

Hi!

I've sent you a PM regarding this!

Thanks
Tomas
tomnavratil

 
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:52 am
Location: Aberdeeen, United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby imisslife » Sun May 26, 2013 9:44 am

Hi,

I'm also planning to climb mont blanc by the end of august probably during the week of (18 - 25 august) and I was looking for a team to join.

I've sent you a PM.

Thanks
imisslife

 
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 9:32 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby Diego Sahagún » Tue May 28, 2013 7:06 pm

User Avatar
Diego Sahagún

 
Posts: 14500
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 6:21 pm
Location: Madrid, Spain
Thanked: 555 times in 505 posts

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby Lisalo » Thu Jul 04, 2013 4:25 pm

Hello,

I am a journalist working for the Swiss TV Channel RTS. We are currently preparing a documentary film on the Mont Blanc and how it is getting more accessible for climbers.

I have seen that some of you are planning to summit the mountain this August and was wondering if you were interested in participating in our project at all...?

@imisslife: are you still going ahead with your climb and if so, would you be available for a quick chat over the phone?

We will be filming from mid-August on and are looking for people who'd like to do the ascent during that time.

Thank you so much,
Lisa
lisamlouis@gmail.com
Lisalo

 
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Jul 04, 2013 4:16 pm
Location: France
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby imisslife » Sun Jul 14, 2013 8:27 pm

Hello Lisa,

Yes I'm still planning to do the ascent during the week of 20 - 26 august with two of my friends,

I've sent you an email with my mobile number if you need more information.

Thanks,
imisslife

 
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 9:32 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby euan1984 » Sun Aug 04, 2013 3:48 pm

Hi,

Are you still doing the Mont Blanc climb on 20-26th August imisslife??

I live in the area (Annecy) and am also hoping to summit. I may have to look at the next two weeks though and am just waiting for favourable weather now.

If our dates cross over then it could be good to share plans.

Euan
euan1984

 
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2013 1:49 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Blanc Unguided 2013

Postby Lisalo » Mon Aug 12, 2013 10:02 am

euan1984 wrote:Hi,

Are you still doing the Mont Blanc climb on 20-26th August imisslife??

I live in the area (Annecy) and am also hoping to summit. I may have to look at the next two weeks though and am just waiting for favourable weather now.

If our dates cross over then it could be good to share plans.

Euan


Hi Euan,

Are you still going up the Mont Blanc in a couple of days' time? Would you be happy to be filmed during your climb?

As I said before, we are doing a TV documentary on hobby climbers summiting the mountain this August. Please do feel free to get in touch, if you have any further questions.

Best,
Lisa Louis
lisamlouis@gmail.com
Lisalo

 
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Jul 04, 2013 4:16 pm
Location: France
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post


Return to Europe

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.