Still confused on rope??

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absinthe52

 
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Still confused on rope??

by absinthe52 » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:38 pm

Okay, I've gone through most of the other post and still cannot determine what rope/brand I want. Any help is appreciated.

I have looked at PETZL/BW/Elder/Mammut/Sterling etc.

I will be doing mostly 4 person glacier travel in the Cascades w/Ranier and McKinley as long term goals. It sounds like an 8mm x 60m will do the trick from what I've read.

I assume the half-line/twin rope will suffise for cravasse safety as I have read in other posts. I like the 8mm for the weight, since I dont plan on using it for much tech stuff. Any thoughts/ideas are appreciated.
Thanks

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Still confused on rope??

by ExcitableBoy » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:11 pm

absinthe52 wrote:
I have looked at PETZL/BW/Elder/Mammut/Sterling etc.


I have had good luck with Mammut, Maxim, Blue Water and Edleweiss.
absinthe52 wrote:
I will be doing mostly 4 person glacier travel in the Cascades w/Ranier and McKinley as long term goals. It sounds like an 8mm x 60m will do the trick from what I've read.

Sounds like you have it figured out. 8 X 60 will do the trick, although may be more length than you need for many glaciers other than Rainer and Denali.
absinthe52 wrote:
I assume the half-line/twin rope will suffise for cravasse safety as I have read in other posts. I like the 8mm for the weight, since I dont plan on using it for much tech stuff. Any thoughts/ideas are appreciated.

I would stick with a half rope rather than a twin. Just my 2 cents.

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Dow Williams

 
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by Dow Williams » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:14 pm

I think you have it figured out as far as size, 60m, 8mm. The Beal Ice Line is the best for durability in terms of glacier travel because it holds up better during the freezing, thawing and drying out cycles. It was built for waterfall ice. Compared to the Marmot Phoenix for example which is a better light weight alpine rock double versus ice. I could sell you one out of our guiding inventory if cost is an issue for you, just PM me. Cheers.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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by ExcitableBoy » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:24 pm

Dow Williams wrote: I could sell you one out of our guiding inventory if cost is an issue for you, just PM me.


The BRO deal, nice!

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Luciano136

 
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by Luciano136 » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:51 pm

A friend of mine read mixed reviews on Petzl and told me to opt for another brand. Then again, it is what it is, a rumor.

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Dow Williams

 
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by Dow Williams » Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:01 pm

Luciano136 wrote:A friend of mine read mixed reviews on Petzl and told me to opt for another brand. Then again, it is what it is, a rumor.


The thin Petzl Dragonfly's do handle like crap, I have seen and experienced it firsthand. I did not buy them, someone else did. Sent them back to Petzl. I have no idea what they did wrong (2008-2009) in the manufacturing process. Assume they have or will figure it out though. Good company.

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absinthe52

 
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by absinthe52 » Thu Oct 08, 2009 12:19 am

I think I'll go for the Beal per Dons suggestion...Thanks!

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absinthe52

 
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by absinthe52 » Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:52 am

peaking of it, does anyone know who the best distributor of Beal rope is for the U.S. vs the standard online retailers...

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T Sharp

 
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by T Sharp » Thu Oct 08, 2009 3:59 am

absinthe52 wrote:peaking of it, does anyone know who the best distributor of Beal rope is for the U.S. vs the standard online retailers...


dowclimbing.com! :)

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Dow Williams

 
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by Dow Williams » Thu Oct 08, 2009 4:01 am

Black Diamond direct Matt.....

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Mark Straub

 
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by Mark Straub » Thu Oct 08, 2009 4:57 am

Another suggestion would be to cut a 60m 8mm in half, so you have 2 30m ropes that you can tie together if needed or leave one at home to save weight and extra rope if you don't need it.

-Mark

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absinthe52

 
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by absinthe52 » Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:09 pm

From what I've read, it looks like BD and Beal have discontinued their partnership in 2008...

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bird

 
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by bird » Thu Oct 08, 2009 3:22 pm

I have not heard a single good thing about Petzl ropes. Haven't climbed with one so can't say from experience, but EVERY comment I've ever seen has been negative.
The BlueWater, Mammuts I've climbed on have been nice.
I'd go with a half rope rather than twin...twins are very very skinny IMO.

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Dow Williams

 
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by Dow Williams » Thu Oct 08, 2009 3:32 pm

absinthe52 wrote:From what I've read, it looks like BD and Beal have discontinued their partnership in 2008...


I thought someone told me once that love lasts forever?

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Thu Oct 08, 2009 7:53 pm

bird wrote:I have not heard a single good thing about Petzl ropes. Haven't climbed with one so can't say from experience, but EVERY comment I've ever seen has been negative.
The BlueWater, Mammuts I've climbed on have been nice.
I'd go with a half rope rather than twin...twins are very very skinny IMO.


I use, and like Petzl cords. Never had trouble with one. I did wear out a beal rope really quickly one time, it took one summer.

I did waste one of Kris' brand new Stratos ropes, It took me about 1.5 minutes, from brand new to trash can. :roll:

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