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SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

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SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Cy Kaicener » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:43 pm

Nanga Parbat has been climbed the hard way (the longest way)

http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=20943

http://mazenoridge.com
Last edited by Cy Kaicener on Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:12 pm

Nanga Parbat was climbed by a hard route before

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP15/climb ... s-anderson
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Cy Kaicener » Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:11 pm

Here is a report that says the summit of Nanga Parbat has not yet been reached

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/N ... eyid=39781

UPDATE from Explorersweb
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=20943
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Scott » Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:29 pm

Nanga Parbat was climbed by a harder route before


Vitaliy,

How do you know that route was harder? The Mazeno Ridge is considered to be one of the greatest challenges yet to be done in the Himalaya. Obviously, the House route on the Rupal Face was a very impressive achievement, but how do you know it was harder (it may be, but where are you getting your info)? :?: The Rupal Face is very steep and sustained, while the Mazeno Ridge is very technical and stays high for an incredibly long time.
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Vitaliy M. » Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:54 pm

Personally, I do not know. I opened a few google links and I read that this ridge was climbed before, but not to the summit (?). If it had a few ascents I presumed it would not be as hard as House-Anderson route up Rupal Face (which IMO was one of the greatest, if not the greatest climb of last decade. given their style etc). Just assumptions on my part. I did not mean to take anything from their accomplishment. Climbing ANY route on a big mountain is incredibly hard for individuals. This one seems like a great achievement, and a very impressive one. My original comment intended to show that Nanga Parbat was climbed a hard way before, not to take anything away from the present climb.
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Scott » Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:47 pm

Scott, check your sight, there is no T in my name.


Right. Fixed it. Sorry about that.

Personally, I do not know. I opened a few google links and I read that this ridge was climbed before, but not to the summit (?).


I was just wondering if you had heard read something about the comparisons or had heard it from Steve House’s writings, for example. There’s no way I would know which is harder, so I was just asking if you heard something more and where the information was coming from (so I could read it-I like reading about this stuff, but it's out of my league).

Anyway, unless things have changed recently, I believe (if someone knows differently, please correct-Damien, you out there?) only once was it successfully traversed (without the summit of Nanga Parbat), the other previous attempts failing after a few summits. The successful climb the ridge (but not the summit of Nanga Parbat) was done by Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson during Steve House’s Pakistan gathering in 2004. Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson failed to summit via the ridge and Steve House and Bruce Miller failed via the Rupal. Someone else would know a lot more though.
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Damien Gildea » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:37 pm

Scott wrote:... only once was it successfully traversed (without the summit of Nanga Parbat), the other previous attempts failing after a few summits. The successful climb the ridge (but not the summit of Nanga Parbat) was done by Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson during Steve House’s Pakistan gathering in 2004. Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson failed to summit via the ridge and Steve House and Bruce Miller failed via the Rupal. Someone else would know a lot more though.


That's about it. There was an attempt last year as well. Note that that this year's ascent was a team of six, as it included three Sherpas, not just the three sahibs mentioned in a lot of reports. Make of that what you will. If they climbed all along the ridge and went to the summit of Nanga Parbat, that's big, hard climb at any rate.
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Vitaliy M. » Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:17 am

Note that that this year's ascent was a team of six, as it included three Sherpas, not just the three sahibs mentioned in a lot of reports.


It is weird they do not mention them anywhere but on their team web site...
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Damien Gildea » Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:22 am

Vitaliy M. wrote:It is weird ...


It gets weirder ...
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby aglane » Fri Jul 13, 2012 4:10 am

Can we just accept that Vitaliy wrote and meant "a harder route" not "a route that was harder than the Mazeno Ridge."

yeah, once an English teacher .... Well put, in any case, V.
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Cy Kaicener » Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:00 pm

The team has split up. Cathy and the sherpas will go down while Sandy and Rick Allen will make a second summit push
The ridge is more than 10 km (6 miles) long with eight 7000 meter (23000 ft) peaks to pass along the route. Steep walls on each side make pulling out hard.

http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=20952
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Vitaliy M. » Sat Jul 14, 2012 5:26 am

I did not want to say it, but I will. It makes me sick that they (news articles etc) call the other team members simply as 'Sherpas.' Everyone has a name (and credibility report in most cases), but those individuals are just 'Sherpas.' What the hell? Is 'Sherpas' a different word for 'porters' nowadays? It's like they are sub humans or something. From the article it is a bit confusing to understand if they are team members, or are they used to carry more gear, or what?
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Cy Kaicener » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:36 pm

Alan Arnette
Breaking: Nanga Parbat success via Mazeno Ridge for Sandy Allen,Rick Allen,Lhakpa Rangdu,Lhakpa Zarok http://t.co/0jRzGBE4
Cathy O'Dowd | Facebook
on.fb.me/Lm9T12
Cathy O'Dowd is on Facebook. Join Facebook to connect with Cathy O'Dowd and others you may know. Facebook gives people the power to share and makes the world more open and connected.
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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby mtnjim » Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:30 pm

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Re: SUMMIT - Mazeno Ridge to Nanga Parbat climbed

Postby Fletch » Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:31 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote:I did not want to say it, but I will. It makes me sick that they (news articles etc) call the other team members simply as 'Sherpas.' Everyone has a name (and credibility report in most cases), but those individuals are just 'Sherpas.' What the hell? Is 'Sherpas' a different word for 'porters' nowadays? It's like they are sub humans or something. From the article it is a bit confusing to understand if they are team members, or are they used to carry more gear, or what?

I think it's something that gets lost in translation and it's not meant to be disrespectful - you have some experience in that Vitaliy, don't you? :lol: You may be extrapolating a bit from the article. Sherpa is a word used for a people - and it's a word spelled using a 'Western' alphabet trying to imitate an 'Eastern' sound. If we really wanted to be PC, then we should be using thier languange and their alphabet to call each person by their name - but I'm guessing that other than Bruno maybe, not too many folks on this forum have a keyboard in Sherpa or speak Sherpa. If the dude really is named Fred or Joe or Sally, then yes, the writer of the article should say Fred Sherpa from Kathmandu, who enjoys windsurfing and romantic walks on the beach climbed to 23,000 ft today... blah, blah, blah. But if his name is something difficult to pronounce (by Western audiences) or difficult to spell (with Western keyboards), then maybe just saying Sherpa is the way to go? It's certainly better than making up a name for the guy, right? Remember the intended audience of the article is folks who predominately speak English and live in different places.

(Dorfman. Your new name is Flounder.)
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