V-Thread Questions

[sharperblue]

What are you all talking about? Can someone translate for us aspiring ice climbers?

And someone text the guy in New Zealand and tell him to speak English.

a V-Thread (or Abakalov thread) is a type of belay/rap anchor built into water ice, so that the climber(s) don't have to use (or potentially leave) screws or other protection in-place. they are incredibly strong if properly constructed in good ice. the discussion off-railed into whether vertically or horizontally-built versions are stronger. here ya go:

http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/c ... c30119a921

[Brad Marshall]

What are you all talking about? Can someone translate for us aspiring ice climbers?

And someone text the guy in New Zealand and tell him to speak English.

a V-Thread (or Abakalov thread) is a type of belay/rap anchor built into water ice, so that the climber(s) don't have to use (or potentially leave) screws or other protection in-place. they are incredibly strong if properly constructed in good ice. the discussion off-railed into whether vertically or horizontally-built versions are stronger. here ya go:

http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/c ... c30119a921

Thanks for posting the link. There is so much interesting history in this sport.

[Damien Gildea]

Joe Puryear and Dave Gottlieb have been descending their mountain routes (Kang Nachugo, Jobo Ribjang, Takargo etc) by threading the rope directly through the Abalakov, no cord/tape. Less rubbish left on the hill. Less stuff to carry.

There's a useful discussion at: http://mountainz.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=871

Aside from the re-boring question, was interesting to see the superiority of tape over cord (maybe obvious, but not previously proven) and the importance of the strength of the ice above the holes, not the ice below the holes, as many of us were taught years ago.

D

[sharperblue]

What are you all talking about? Can someone translate for us aspiring ice climbers?

And someone text the guy in New Zealand and tell him to speak English.

a V-Thread (or Abakalov thread) is a type of belay/rap anchor built into water ice, so that the climber(s) don't have to use (or potentially leave) screws or other protection in-place. they are incredibly strong if properly constructed in good ice. the discussion off-railed into whether vertically or horizontally-built versions are stronger. here ya go:

http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/c ... c30119a921

Thanks for posting the link. There is so much interesting history in this sport.

you know you've arrived when you get the title "Honored Master of Alpinism" - how awesome is that?

[Deb]

This is all awesome information! Does anyone have a diagram of using a screw for back-up?

[The Chief]

Joe Puryear and Dave Gottlieb have been descending their mountain routes (Kang Nachugo, Jobo Ribjang, Takargo etc) by threading the rope directly through the Abalakov, no cord/tape. Less rubbish left on the hill. Less stuff to carry.

Good point D. I too have done this numerous times in Winter.

But, and a big but.

Be very careful. A wet rope can in fact freeze in place as has happened to me.

Something to consider prior to rapping in this manner in the warm temps of Spring, Summer and Fall in the Sierra.

[sharperblue]

This is all awesome information! Does anyone have a diagram of using a screw for back-up?

i think there was an imagine in one of the links above - in a nutshell, though, sink a screw in 'normal' position (5-15 degrees hanger-down in good ice about 18"-24+" horizontally away from the nearest anchor point) and clip it with a sling & 'biner to the rope

[rhyang]

A friend sent me this link -- it's a video of threading the cord through the holes without using a hooking tool -

http://www.onthesharpend.com/2010/04/06 ... -threader/

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBNcFTuChQ8[/youtube]

Anyone ever try this ?