Hello, I was wondering if someone has climbed the vanis couloir to the east summit of the breithorn. It seems a beautiful, direct line to me, but is it really? I like to climb it next summer (and i have the skills and experience ). The small biwak at the roccia nera seems a good starting point. However, i was wondering if the approach is still ok, because the gorner gletsjer has these really weird crevasses. How is the route itself, exposed to rockfall or safe? I have an guidebook of 10 years old and with the new circumstances (routes like these in may/june) i like to hear some recent stories. Any information/advice is welcome!
If you are thinking of the "Via Del Grand Diefro Chiacciato" to Roccia Nera it is a TD+ and one the most demading routes in the Alps and the piddling little walk across the (Gorner??) Ghiacciaodi is the least of you worries.
If you are thinking of the North East Couloir to the E Summit it is a little easer?? TD- but who knows in May/June of 06 could be like. In 01 there was so much snow it was avilanching almost every day or it could be like 03 when there was almost no snow just ice but lots of rockfall.
This The hut is the Rossi and Volante hut and it is relitivly new and has room for 12 not 6 that most older guidebooks have it.
It is the Schwarztor glacier you will be crossing and crevase danger is not too great but i wouldn't cross it solo.
I have only done the route in decent in June of 01 when it was in such exceptional shape ( hard nerve all the way and someone was even nice enough to puch steps for me all the way down) I managed to get to the glacier without doing any rock climbing though I did cut across at the bottom of the colouir to the Breithorn glacier and then down to the Gornor rather than finishing up on the Schwarztor..
It took only about 1.5 hours to the glacier. It was risky though as there were a number of large cornices perched over the enitre decent.
I did manage a picture of one falling off the Central summit fortunetly when I was far away