Eatly August Climbs in Wengell St. Elias NP

[BigMitch]

The low snow year in the Pac NW has me considering going to Alaska in early August for a week's trip.

Thinking of renting a car in ANC and driving to the Wengell St.Elias NP.

Any good mountaineering within a couple days travel by foot from the Visitor's Center, for example, Royal Mountain or Mt. Blackburn?

Any other venues of interest?

Thank you.

[Scott]

Places like Mt Blackburn will be hard in early August. Most people climb in May and June when the weather and climbing conditions are better. The glaciers could be rough in early August and the snow bridges gone. Peaks there have been ascended in August though, so it is possible. At low elevations in the park, river crossings can be a problem.

Also, if coming overland, a week isn't much time for something like Blackburn, especially since you would have to get incredibly lucky with the weather to do it in a week, and August is usually one of the wettest times there.

There are plenty of lower peaks which might be good though. Perhaps try some of the peaks around the Root Glacier or Bonanza Peak.

[Steve Gruhn]

Any good mountaineering within a couple days travel by foot from the Visitor's Center, for example, Royal Mountain or Mt. Blackburn?

I've never heard of Royal Mountain. But as Scott indicated, the scale of things is a bit larger than the Lower 48 and the trails and access points are a lot fewer. August and September are the rainiest months.

When you mentioned a Visitor Center, I wasn't certain where you were headed. There is a Visitor Center in Slana, but the most reasonably accessible peaks in the Slana area are in the Mentasta Mountains. There are several accessible peaks in the Mentasta Mountains within a couple days' hike from Slana.

There's also a Visitor Center in Chitina and I think there is a NPS presence in McCarthy or Kennicott, too. The Park Headquarters is in Silver Springs, which is just north of Copper Center and not really near any suitable mountains.

[BigMitch]

Thank you for the feedback. It is much appreciated.

I know that the timing is not good, the weather can be poor, and the snow melted out, but I am just exploring the idea.

I was referring to the Kennecott Visitor Center at the end of McCarthy Road.

I meant Regal Mountain, not Royal Mountain.

If not this venue, any place else would you suggest for a week trip during that time period?

[Damien Gildea]

If not this venue, any place else would you suggest for a week trip during that time period?

Bugaboos, Canadian Rockies, Waddington, Tetons…

You'd be doing real well to climb Blackburn in a week on foot from McCarthy, in any month

[Steve Gruhn]

From Kennicott there are several peaks that would be reasonable to access. Consider Porphyry Mountain, Donoho Peak, or Bonanza Peak.

[BigMitch]

Thank you for all of your help.

I am looking for something with a couple day approach on a glacier and a day or two spent on a summit.

Preferably, the summit should be snow or ice covered.

Has anyone climbed Atna Peak or Rime Peak approaching from the south on the Kennicott Glacier? The guidebook "Alaska; A Climbing Guide" describes their approaches from the north, not the south.

[BigMitch]

Anyone done the approach to Mount Drum south west ridge from Copper Center via the Klawasi River or up the Nadina River?

I don't really care if we make summit or not. The journey is the important part.

[Steve Gruhn]

The first ascent of the Atna Peaks and the second ascent of Rime Peak were from the south via the Kennicott Glacier. Check out pages 121 and 122 of the 1966 American Alpine Journal.

I've never heard of anyone approaching Mount Drum via the Klawasi River or the Nadina River in the summertime. The Copper River is a pretty major river to cross.

[Scott]

BigMitch, either you're an extreme bad*** or are underestimating these mountains. Steve is right about river crossings and August is when they will be high.

You have only a week and want to approach mountains over broken glaciers (especially by August) and an unknown route before even getting to the climb. Even if you flew in by bush plane and got lucky with the weather, a week would be pushing it. If you do fly in though, keep in mind that glacier landing can be rough in August. A lake landing might be better if available. Also, keep in mind that if you do fly in, you have to have a flexible schedule since bad weather keeps planes on the tarmac.

Drum, one of the most accessible peaks in the region can be done in a week, including travel time, if you get lucky with the weather.

Approaching something like Atna Peaks or Rime Peak with only a week's time and over those glaciers in August and pushing an unknown route would be an extreme accomplishment. As said, you are either an extreme bad*** or underestimating those mountains.

I'd recommend contacting St Elias Guides. Even if you don't use their services, they often provide information. They gave me information for several Alaskan ascents that I asked about, even though I haven't used their services (yet at least).

If you don't fix into the extreme category (and maybe you do), set your sites on something like Bonanza Peak or the peaks around Root Glacier. There should be a lot of reasonable choices in Alaska for a week's trip.

The areas around Juneau, Haines, and Anchorage also have plenty of mountains that can be climbed in a week or less. Just one random example (out of hundreds) would be Mount Emmerich near Haines. That is one cool looking mountain and people I talked to who have climbed it said it was fantastic.

Again, I'd email St Elias guides for information and suggested peaks.

[Steve Gruhn]

Scott's recommendation of contacting Saint Elias Alpine Guides is a good one. Try contacting the co-owner, Wayne Marrs at wayne@steliasguides.com.