Mountaineering Boots Questions (Sizing, etc.)

[eastcoastarmy]

What's going on everyone?

Hope all is well! I'm in the process of purchasing most of my gear for a Rainier climb I will be doing next July, most likely. I will be doing the Emmons Glacier, with IMG 1) because I can't convince any of my friends to come along (I live on the beach in NC) and 2) I have absolutely no glacier experience at all... So I'm hoping to go with a guide and learn as much as I can, so I can carry it over and continue on to bigger things... Anyways, I'm a long time hiker and backpacker on the East Coast (mostly Linville Gorge though) for as long as I can remember, did the whole Eagle scout thing when I was younger, and I have been rock climbing off and on for the past 5yrs or so. So I'm proficient with anchors, gear placement, basic stuff on up to about 5.8 Will be going to New Hampshire this winter as well.

Anyways, I'm 6'3"-6'4" or so and pretty thin, about 170lbs. I also wear a size 13 US Nike (and most of my general hiking boots) and are flat as wood, so I'm well aware of the struggle those of us with large feet have to go through to get climbing shoes. About the only shoe I could ever make work was a 47-48 Tarantulace that would eventually stretch enough. So I'm in the process of looking for a good mountaineering boot... I pretty much have it down to either the Nepal Evo GTX or a plastic like the Baruntse that will carry me to some higher elevations (which is the plan for the future, but it will take a few years to save up for Denali.... I'm still 27 with a lot of student loans and etc). My feet don't get cold extremely easy, but I do like the Baruntse due to the wider array of conditions it will handle. But then again don't want to be miserably uncomfortable on Rainier. And of course, since I live at the beach, there is nowhere in the SE that I know of that carries any kind of mountaineering boot that I could try out.... The closest REI is over two hours away lol! So I'm trying to figure out if anyone with similar dimensions has a recommended size I should try out.... Would the 48 in the Evo even be large enough? I'm hoping I don't have to move up to a 49 (Baruntse), but hey, will do what we have to....

And one more quick question.... I got a pair of OR Crocs last week in size XXL... Mainly because of how big the boots will be.... Was that the correct call to make? I definitely see how the boots will fill the lower part of the gaiters out, but there's at on of room up top where you cinch them down. Like I said, I'm pretty thin, but am worried the XL would not accept the larger boots.... Has anyone had any issues caused by this? It seems like I can get them cinches down pretty well, but they definitely seem large...


Thanks for the help guys! I really appreciate it!

[ExcitableBoy]

You may want to just rent plastic boots from your guide service or REI. Call ahead to make sure they have your size. If you really do plan on doing Denali and other high altitude/cold weather endeavors, then buying a pair of Koflachs or Scarpa Inverno will do just fine on Rainier and Denali with an insulated super gaiter or over boot. An all mountain boot like the LS Nepal, Scarpa Mont Blanc etc. will work well for Rainier, as well as many other trips, but will not be warm enough for Denali.

[eastcoastarmy]

I just did the Emmons Glacier Route with IMG a few weeks ago and wore Koflach Arctis Expes, which are the same plastics I wore on Denali last year. 10 stars out of 10 for both warmth and comfort.

I don't do gaiters other than for purposes of showing them I have them during gear checks. If, however, you go on to Denali, you will need to consider overboots for whatever boot you go with. Good luck!

Right on... Did you wear the Koflach's the entire time you were out there? I see they make them in up to a 12.5UK, which is a 13.5US size from what I understand... Hopefully that will work. Yeah, I've only ever used the over-ankle gaiters for bushwhacking and stuff in the Gorge, etc. so I'm not too sure about them... They're definitely big up in the calves. Thanks man! How was everything with IMG? I kind of hate going guided, I've never been one to have people do stuff for me really, but I don't see much of a choice here with my lack of glacier experience... I know Rainier is a whole different ball game that some of the CO 14'ers I've been to.

[ExcitableBoy]

I kind of hate going guided, I've never been one to have people do stuff for me really, but I don't see much of a choice here with my lack of glacier experience... I know Rainier is a whole different ball game that some of the CO 14'ers I've been to.

You really will need a guide or experienced partners willing to spend some time teaching you. Mt Rainier is more like an AK Range mountain than anything in CO or CA. Nothing comparable really. IMG is better than RMI in terms of actually teaching you stuff, AAI is another good choice.

Right on... Did you wear the Koflach's the entire time you were out there? I see they make them in up to a 12.5UK, which is a 13.5US size from what I understand... Hopefully that will work. Yeah, I've only ever used the over-ankle gaiters for bushwhacking and stuff in the Gorge, etc. so I'm not too sure about them... They're definitely big up in the calves. Thanks man! How was everything with IMG?

I think IMG guides mostly on the Emmons side, wearing approach shoes and carrying your plastics is an option. I guided one group who complained the entire 4 mile hike out from Glacier Basin about wearing plastics on the trail. I saw an IMG guide approaching the Emmons while wearing flip flops and carrying this LS Baturas on his pack.

[eastcoastarmy]

I kind of hate going guided, I've never been one to have people do stuff for me really, but I don't see much of a choice here with my lack of glacier experience... I know Rainier is a whole different ball game that some of the CO 14'ers I've been to.

You really will need a guide or experienced partners willing to spend some time teaching you. Mt Rainier is more like an AK Range mountain than anything in CO or CA. Nothing comparable really. IMG is better than RMI in terms of actually teaching you stuff, AAI is another good choice.

Right on... Did you wear the Koflach's the entire time you were out there? I see they make them in up to a 12.5UK, which is a 13.5US size from what I understand... Hopefully that will work. Yeah, I've only ever used the over-ankle gaiters for bushwhacking and stuff in the Gorge, etc. so I'm not too sure about them... They're definitely big up in the calves. Thanks man! How was everything with IMG?

I think IMG guides mostly on the Emmons side, wearing approach shoes and carrying your plastics is an option. I guided one group who complained the entire 4 mile hike out from Glacier Basin about wearing plastics on the trail. I saw an IMG guide approaching the Emmons while wearing flip flops and carrying this LS Baturas on his pack.

Awesome man, I appreciate the help! Yeah I'm definitely more interested in this being a good learning experience that I can expand on and take with me. Hopefully come back next year with a partner or two... I'm excited to get into it, and I've always done well at high elevations in comparison to my other sea level friends I've been to CO with. I was curious about the approach and having to wear plastics on the way up there, definitely something to consider... I normally wrap my feet with leukotape in the high wear areas (and because my feet are flat as hell); so a little discomfort isn't a deal breaker for me. I see everyone talking about bringing these huge packs, but I'm trying to keep everything in my Osprey 65 AG. Most all of my gear is pretty light and take up minimal space. Is there a big difference in comfort between the Koflach Arctis Expe's and the LS double boots?

[eastcoastarmy]

IMG is awesome.

I had about 20 years of backcountry experience before I finally bit the bullet in 2012 and decided to go guided for my last 5 state highpoints (Rainier, Hood, Gannett, Granite and Denali). I first climbed the DC Route in 2012 with IMG and hit the Emmons with them this year. Nothing but good things to say about them as a company and the guides as individuals.

As far as wearing the Koflachs the entire way ... yes, although they discouraged me from doing it. From the trailhead at about 4,400 feet until snowline around 7,000 feet, you are basically trail hiking with a huge pack (I think mine probably came in the heaviest around 55 or 60 pounds). My two Denali friends and I all talked about it after the gear meeting and decided that no effing way were we adding more weight to our packs while wearing approach shoes. No problems whatsoever for me and I actually liked the extra ankle support even down low.

Awesome! That's great to hear man. Did you make it up both times on Rainier with IMG? I've heard a lot of good things about them, and am really looking to learn as much as I can from this trip and build on it. About my only snow and ice experience is here in the Gorge in the winter with micro spikes, so I'm definitely looking forward to it! That's good to know about the Koflach's, that was my one concern with them was the comfort. If I do purchase boots for this trip (pretty much the only thing I'm possibly considering renting), it would be nice to have them a few months ahead of time and get used to them and break them in... I'm more worried about showing up and renting boots that just don't cut it for me and I've never stepped in... Even the REI's anywhere near me don't even carry mountaineering boots, even in the winter. So it's definitely going to take some trying out to figure out what works. I was messing around with my crocodile gaiters and put my normal Salomon hiking boots on with my base layer and my Gamma AR pants and I just think the XXL (for size 12-15, i'm a 13) is way too big... Even for the boot area it seems big... I don't think the boots I'm going to be wearing with them are going to be THAT much bigger to feel these monsters out... And the calves are huge... Probably going to return them for an XL and see how they do... It's really more of the calf size anything that throws them off.

[WyomingSummits]

IMG is awesome.

I had about 20 years of backcountry experience before I finally bit the bullet in 2012 and decided to go guided for my last 5 state highpoints (Rainier, Hood, Gannett, Granite and Denali). I first climbed the DC Route in 2012 with IMG and hit the Emmons with them this year. Nothing but good things to say about them as a company and the guides as individuals.

As far as wearing the Koflachs the entire way ... yes, although they discouraged me from doing it. From the trailhead at about 4,400 feet until snowline around 7,000 feet, you are basically trail hiking with a huge pack (I think mine probably came in the heaviest around 55 or 60 pounds). My two Denali friends and I all talked about it after the gear meeting and decided that no effing way were we adding more weight to our packs while wearing approach shoes. No problems whatsoever for me and I actually liked the extra ankle support even down low.

Not being rude, just curious......but what were you carrying that made your pack 60lbs on a guided trip?

[ExcitableBoy]

Not being rude, just curious......but what were you carrying that made your pack 60lbs on a guided trip?

The guide outfits require a lot more gear than a private group would normally take. They want to make sure their guests are kitted out for the worst potential conditions and their trip is not spoiled for want of an extra pair of socks or something.

I see everyone talking about bringing these huge packs, but I'm trying to keep everything in my Osprey 65 AG. Most all of my gear is pretty light and take up minimal space.

65 liters is a huge pack for Rainier. Experienced locals often climb Rainier overnight with a 30 liter pack. Last time I climbed Rainier, I did a leisurely three day trip up Liberty Ridge with a 40 liter pack, which was the correct size for the tent and extra gear required by a semi technical route.

Is there a big difference in comfort between the Koflach Arctis Expe's and the LS double boots?

By LS doubles, I guess you are referring to the '6,000 meter' boots, like the LS Batura or Scarpa Phantom. The big difference is going to be weight. The new 6,000 meter boots with integrated insulated super gaiters are lighter, a lot more expensive (like double the price), and less durable than a good old Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno. The real reason to climb in 6,000 meter boots is for their technical climbing ability. Otherwise the extra cost is wasted on a less durable, albeit lighter boot.

[ExcitableBoy]

Not being rude, just curious......but what were you carrying that made your pack 60lbs on a guided trip?

The guide outfits require a lot more gear than a private group would normally take. They want to make sure their guests are kitted out for the worst potential conditions and their trip is not spoiled for want of an extra pair of socks or something.

Socks are important.

They are, I always bring a second set PLUS a pair of super thick 100% Merino wool socks expressly to sleep in. I even bring a spare on day trips, which has come in handy quite often. (Falling into creeks, getting benighted, just soaking through the boots, etc.)

[Gratton89]

Haven't read any replies from anyone. Just read your initial question/ post.
That being said, I climbed rainier with IMG 4 years ago and you wont be disapointed. Great guides and I even went the climb the mexican volcanos with them the next year.
When I first went on Rainier, I was in your position and owned almost no mountaineering gear since I live in Ottawa and the biggest mountains around are the daks. If youre like me and dont have a mountaineering store near by, I suggest your rent the boots from IMG. They had plastic boots and at least they will give you the feel for plastic. Everyone knows how it feels to walk in synthetic boots like the evos but plastic boots are an other animal. After renting plastic I ended up buying Koflach EXPE boots.
Ive had them for 3 years now and they are bomb proof. Used them in mexico and chile for high expedition stuff and use them at -30 in the daks and new hampshire. Ive never been cold with them.
If you plan on doing denali in the near futur, try to get something that is at the minimum warm enough for that. Which the Expe are.
Sorry if I cant help you with size, but I really recommend you rent. You will get a feel for boots, size and you will have the chance to talk to guides (the best guys in the biz) about potential boots for your plan.
Fyi. Im also 27 and always looking for hiking, climbing or mountaineering partners in the north east. Let me know if you need any othe advice on IMG or gear.
Hope I helped