Regarding the use of doing a running belay with pickets on steep snow (think Old Chute or Pearly Gates on Hood) compared to having someone on top belaying the followers up, can anyone argue which would be better to use to bring up people who haven't climbed either of those routes before? Me and a partner are leading a Hood climb next month and are discussing the merits of each for making sure the newer folks don't slide into the fumarole or Bergschrund. I climbed both routes and didn't rope up at all previously, we won't bring pickets if we don't have to. Also, downclimb vs. rappel down the Chute?
Thanks, couldn't decide whether this was a gear related question or "general" post.