Regional discussion and conditions reports for the great state of Utah, from the alpine peaks to the desert slots. Please post partners requests and trip plans here or in the Utah Climbing Partners section.
I'm going to be in Salt Lake City from Monday, October 25th, to Friday, November 5th and am looking to do some climbing during the day or in the afternoons/evenings. My schedule is very flexible.
As for a brief run-down of my climbing level: In Tuolumne Meadows & the Valley in Yosemite I've been leading strong 5.6 and some 5.7 trad routes, and I've been fine climbing slab up to 5.10a/b on top rope & cracks up to 5.10c on top rope in the Valley, so I'd be happy following up through 5.10 - especially if it is on cracks or offwidths.
Send me an e-mail if you'd be up for any cragging!
The following are a list of things that I am thinking of trying to do while in town. Please let me know if you'd be interested in doing any of these climbs with me, and if so, what day or time of day. I'm also open to climbing other stuff.
Alpine Climbs (I'm pretty fast on the cl. 2-3 terrain & big elevation gain, so you should be as well for the traverses)
Mt Timpanogos Massif Traverse (North to South) Provo Peak Massif Traverse (maybe with Cascade Pk?) North Peak (of Nebo, possibly combined with exploring a route on the N Ridge of Bald Mtn from the valley?) Mount Olympus - Kamp's Ridge (III, 5.6) Sundial Peak North Face (5.6-5.9) The Eleventh Hour (5.8, 4-5? pitches) (preferred route, if someone can share the 5.8 leads)
Big Cottonwood Canyon Mule Hollow Wall The Ground Glass (5.6, 2 pitches) (as a warmup for the main wall?) Left of Center Route (5.5R, 3 pitches) The Center Face (5.6R, 3 pitches) Jam Crack Route (5.6 (w/ 5.5R), 3 pitches) (favored route, but maybe we could do the other routes if we're fast & are up there early enough in the day?)
Dead Snag Area East Dihedrals (5.6, 3 pitches) Jig's Up (5.6, 3 pitches)
Little Cottonwood Canyon
Crescent Crack Buttress Area Mexican Crack (5.10a) (probably cannot lead this, but I'd love to follow!) Crescent Crack (5.7, 3 pitches) Final Link (5.9, 1 pitch) (probably cannot lead this, but happy to follow!)(nice way to add a pitch to Crescent Crack) The Coffin (5.9, 2 pitches)(probably cannot lead this but I'd love to follow!)(could be linked up with Crescent Crack for a nice, long climb!)
The Thumb Standard Thumb (III, 5.7) Indecent Exposure Variation (5.7) Summit Pitch (5.5) Robbins' Crack (5.10, offwidth)(maybe can be top-roped from the summit?)
Gate Buttress School Room (II, 5.6, 5 pitches) School Room West (5.7, 4 pitches) Hatchet Crack (5.7, 1 pitch) Bushwack Crack (5.8, 2 pitches)
Pentapitch (5.8, 5 pitches)
Climbing Practice Gate Buttress Bushwack Crack (5.8, 2 pitches. Clean aid climbing practice on 1st pitch (just using slings 1 alpine etrier for practice))
Piton Placement(in roadside cutout or similar cruddy, eroded discreet area where there is no climbing. I have some ideas, but happy to take suggestions too) Big Cottonwood Canyon Quartzite Little Cottonwood Canyon Granite Limestone (American Fork Canyon? Parley's Canyon? Anyone have suggestions for some places with cruddy rock or good road cut-outs?)
Naw. For some reason it is just always hard to find partners in Utah. I consider it a 'proximity' syndrome. In the Bay Area where you really need to go out of your way to get to the mountains, people are more keen to make commitments in advance. And the long drive tends to limit those who get out to those who are much crazier and fanatical about climbing.
I have some plans cooking with various friends, but there is still enough vague unplanned time that I'm just seeing what I can do to get that to be more certain!