Hi Guys,

Nothing like leaving something till the last minute. Would anyone be kind enough to give their thoughts on tents for 2 persons for a crack at the Upper West Rib.

We are currently tossing up between some MH tents as we can get a bit of a deal. Looking at Trango 2 or EV3.


Trango 2
+ve - cheaper, more durable?, less condensation?

Ev3
+ve - roomier, easier set up, lighter

Thanks.

Although only 31 sq.ft. of living space, I think the MH EV2 would be a great choice. Definitely lighter than the Trango and more able to withstand high winds and heavy snowfall. Congrats on your trip plans and aspirations!

Deb wrote:Although only 31 sq.ft. of living space, I think the MH EV2 would be a great choice. Definitely lighter than the Trango and more able to withstand high winds and heavy snowfall. Congrats on your trip plans and aspirations!

I was fortunate to have an EV2 to myself on Denali, no way in hell I would want to share that narrow of a space for ~3 weeks assuming you may do the WButt before you hit the upper Rib. It is definitely nice to have space to chill during your downtime. So, my suggestion would be to opt for the EV3 provided you aren't really concerned about the added cost. YMMV

Thank you Californians for your input. Appreciate it.

If it were up to me, I would bring a superlight tent to sleep in: http://www.bentgate.com/mountain-hardwe ... elid=FROOG and a floorless shelter like this one http://www.everestgear.com/mohaki.html. I'm sure you are familiar with the practice of excavating benches and a table to make a great place to hang out during storms and while acclimatizing. I've seen guided groups use these all the way up to 17k on the West Butt. Once you are acclimitized, you can make a quick dash up the Prime Rib with just the lightweight assault tent. Just a thought.

I know you're specifically asking about MH tents (discount?) but if footprint isn't an issue this tent is awesome:

BD Guiding Light
http://www.bentgate.com/black-diamond-g ... elid=FROOG

I split it between 2-3 people and it is super roomy and it weighs in at 6.5lbs. Nothing but good experiences with it so far. The BD bombshelter is basically the same thing but with built in vestibules and heavier duty fabric.

FWIW,
I got the TRANGO 2 on advice from a couple I have climbed with that summited Denali mid May 09. They were caught at 17.2 for 10 days. Only tent left standing when the storm was over basically. They feel single wall won't deal with the condensation well enough.
I'm on West Buttress 1 June.

jmd16 wrote:FWIW,
I got the TRANGO 2 on advice from a couple I have climbed with that summited Denali mid May 09. They were caught at 17.2 for 10 days. Only tent left standing when the storm was over basically. They feel single wall won't deal with the condensation well enough.
I'm on West Buttress 1 June.

Trango 2 is the standard tent on Denali. I have used single wall tents in the AK range. Condensation was not a problem, the air is so cold and dry.

ExcitableBoy wrote:

jmd16 wrote:FWIW,
I got the TRANGO 2 on advice from a couple I have climbed with that summited Denali mid May 09. They were caught at 17.2 for 10 days. Only tent left standing when the storm was over basically. They feel single wall won't deal with the condensation well enough.
I'm on West Buttress 1 June.

Trango 2 is the standard tent on Denali. I have used single wall tents in the AK range. Condensation was not a problem, the air is so cold and dry.

I would never use a single-wall on Denali again. I used Bibler Fitzroy and Eldorado when I climbed it in May 2000 and condensation was a huge problem - no matter how much we left the tops open for venting etc, and how do you do that in a storm? I saw people so warm and relaxed in double-wall Trangos and vowed to use them in future, which I did in Antarctica for years. I briefly relented and used a Bibler Bombshelter high on Vinson and once again it was cold, damp and cramped. I also tried a BD Firstlight, which I love, at Vinson Low Camp a few years ago and even with the top of the door open still got bad frost buildup, though nothing like a Bibler.

I hear the 'high, cold and dry' thing for single-walls, especially Biblers, been hearing it for years, but time and again I have found in reality, it is simply not true.

Never used the EV tents, but I hear they're cramped. In general, for Denali or anywhere similar, I would use a Trango for the main tent - strong, warm, roomy - and, if necessary, a Firstlight for actually climbing high on something harder.

Thanks everyone. Trango it is.

Admittedly, the Alaskan trips I did with single wall tents (of three different manufactures) were alpine style. We used double wall tents as basecamp tents, only using the small single wall tents enroute. I have also used single wall tents in the lower 48 in various seasons and climates without any noticeable problems. I don't know why some users have issues with condensation while other climbers have used these tents successfully for many years. Either way, the Trango 2 is a solid choice for Alaska, so long as you don't mind the weight.