CClaude wrote: Guyzo wrote:
Cclaude.... in second one, what did he do, dump his helmet, and go old skool?
on Kindness to move your right foot up you need to plaster your head and right shoulder against the wall and drag your thumb against the roof so hard that you scrap the skin off (its a V7/V8 move). Mike had found that having his helmet on, he wasn't able to smear his head/face against the wall and get enough friction to stay on, soo he dumped his helmet.
Now me, I'm always ol'skool
Ha..... I figgered as much.
We don't have to much Basalt around here. What you guy's (rpc...too)show looks really fab....
CClaude.... have you ever been to the Owens River Gorge? ... it's sort of like that.
I just love climbing where it's not straight forward to do. ie grab the hold, grab the next etc.
but rather weird 3 dimensional things like you describe. .... There is a climb on Traper Dome, in Courtwright, where you undercling a roof heading straight right... it turns into a rightfacing book... to get into and established in the corner.... you do a 360 with your bod....makes for some interesting Rope Management so you don't tie yourself up. .........
But Crack or Face it's all good.
Ill stop the rant after this: Up at the Palm Springs tram, on Coffman Craig.... Kris S. put up a climb "It's Always Something" 5.11 (real). This one pitch climb has a little bit of everything, Chimney, Mantle, Crack- OW, hands, fingers, Flake, Undercling, Crimp edging, Steep Friction and Holdless Friction, all at steady 5.11..... I call it the best one pitch climb in California.