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Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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UliRoute Climbed: Zic-Zac-Variation of Jamapa-Route, lost my way! Date Climbed: Mar. 5, 2000  Sucess!

Uli

Started as a party of three. Reached the summit on my own. On the lower portion of the glacier (at about 4.900m) I turned right and headed for fhe saddle south of the Sarcofago. It was still dark so I missed the existing track. When the slope became steeper and steeper I started to feel unsafe. After a short break I turned left still climbing up. In the early morning light I fortunately crossed the track. At 8 o'clock am I was on the summit. On my way up I enjoyed an impressing sunrise. My highest peak at that time.
Posted Mar 27, 2001 5:29 am

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Direct Variation of the Jamapa Glacier route Date Climbed: January 1999  Sucess!

mdostby

After summiting Ixta two days eariler I was anxious to attempt Orizaba. After reaching the glacier we turned to the right and ascended a very direct line to just below the summit. Mostly a 30 to 35 degree slope with the upper section getting fairly steep. Maybe a 50 to 55 degree climb. Set protection on the upper part. Descended the normal route.
Posted Mar 24, 2001 8:18 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier (Route Normal) Date Climbed: December 18, 1998  Sucess!

Josh

I started my bid for the summit at 3:32am on December 13. There were a dozen or so other people heading for the summit that day. They all left earlier that morning -- some as early as 1am.



The first couple thousand feet of the climb is on a rough trail. The trail is well-marked, and it would be pretty tough to get lost. At around 15,600 ft, I reached the "Tongue." I've read that this part of the climb is often hard ice and is the technical crux of the entire route. However, when I was there, the snow conditions were perfect and the tongue was just a simple 40 degree snowfield. At the top of the tongue is the Jamapa glacier. I didn't see any crevasses, and the route was very straight-forward. When I reached the glacier at a little after 5am, I turned off my headlamp. The sun hadn't started to come up yet, but there was a bright quarter-moon to light the way. I steadily made my way up the glacier to about 17,500 ft where the glacier steepened to about 40 degrees. Before I knew it, I was at the crater. An easy snow covered ridge led to the summit (18,405 ft). The whole ascent took me 3 hours and 26 minutes. As I reached the top, the sun came up, and the mountain cast a huge triangular shadow on the ground and clouds to the west. After about 15 minutes on the summit, I headed down. The descent took about an hour and forty-five minutes, and I was back at Piedra Grande by 9am.
Posted Mar 16, 2001 12:42 pm

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