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Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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chris_gouletRoute Climbed: Barranca Seca, Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 18, 1991


Sea-level to summit human-powered solo ascent.

Bicycle/trailer ride with all my gear from Veracruz to Coscomatepec, then walked from the humid East side of the volcano, up the Barranca Seca (dry creek) and the NE slopes. This was my first 'high altitude' peak, so I followed acclimatization 'by the book' with camps at 10000', 12000', 13000', 14000', 15000' and 16000'. Other than breathing like crazy, this was an easy climb technically, with the continuous good weather. The magnificent Citlalt├ępetl volcano fueled my passion for masterpieces of mineral splendor, with its grand and exquisite multi-hued crater.

I was practicing and testing myself for Aconcagua, so after summiting and back to 16000' camp, I returned to the crater rim a couple days later and camped at 18600'. That was awesome and I felt great, so I became a high altitude junkie.
Posted Sep 30, 2006 4:26 am

bidwelldkRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2005


Fantastic Trip. Spent one night camping on the way to Piedre Grande and one night @ the hut. Felt a little nauseous above 15,000', would've spent one more night @ the hut if I had to it again, but made the summit and had a great trip.
Posted Sep 14, 2006 7:30 pm

peakrat76Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 7, 1978


Stormed off in 75. Returned in 78. Sr. Reyes at the Antigua Flor arranged transport. We owned the hut and mountain for several days. No crowds back then. Got a midnight start and summited on the 7th. Beautiful day, good snow/ice conditions. First peak over 14K.
Posted Aug 14, 2006 10:16 pm

TheBootfitterSuffered AMS - Didn't make it...
Date Climbed: Nov 11, 2005


Hiked up to about 16K the day before and felt great, but the fumes and stuffy air in the hut -- along with sleeping at 14K -- made me nauseous. Had we stuck around one more day, I feel I could have made it up, but our group opted to climb La Malinche instead.
Posted Jul 31, 2006 2:30 pm

seth@LOKISnd, The Espinozas were very nice  Sucess!


Go with the Espinozas in Chlachichuca. Very nice people to stay with.
Posted Jul 26, 2006 7:14 pm

seth@LOKIFelt like fourteen! Don't go to Cholula  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 23, 2001


Climbed with Dazve Thompson, Dirk Anderson, Jess Rigg, and Mike from Texas. Very cool, loved the Crater View and into Jamapa Valley. Did not love the junk crosses on the summit. The forest is said to have been much more prolific before corruption killed it. Worth the trip. Do NOT go to Cholula or you will see what religious rule can do to depress the populous. Lame... go the Vera Cruz or Ouaxaca.
Posted Jul 26, 2006 7:13 pm

BalletBoyRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2006


Made the Summit in one push from the Piedra Grande hut on the 14th after being turned around on the 12th due to weather. What an excellent view. Please see my trip report, titled - Feb. 14th, 2006: An awesome view of Mexico for more details and pictures about climbing this beautiful mountain.
Posted Jul 8, 2006 8:46 pm

Wandering Sole ImagesEspol├│n de Oro  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 23, 2006

Wandering Sole Images

Taking the last few steps to the summit was exhilerating. There's just something about those last steps when the views open up into a 360 degree panorama. It was a perfect ending to my trip to Mexico and one more step towards reaching higher elevations. I hope to be going to Aconcagua in a not-too-distant future!
Posted May 16, 2006 12:54 am

N2HiThinAirJamapa Glacier w/ a Twist  Sucess!


Great climb. We base camped just a bit above Piedra Grande Hut to avoid New Year's crowds which never showed up. Moved to high camp and had some fun tooling around on the ice. Climb day was beau beyond description. Acclimitization did us wonders. Following beta from Senor Reyes and another guide, we went west on the lower glacier attaining the saddle and then up to the summit, rather than a direct Jamapa Glacier route. Success had been only about 15% the week or so before doing the direct route. Senor Reyes and family were great hosts.
Posted May 11, 2006 4:45 am

TMmultiple x  Sucess!


Fun climb all around. I love this trip. Good people (Joachin Conchola is great as an outfitter/ 4w driver.Check out Xochimilco back in town!
Posted Apr 10, 2006 5:53 am

Mountain JimJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 10, 1976

Mountain Jim

Climbed with my friend, Charlie Brown. Nice day ... nice mountain.
Posted Mar 14, 2006 4:53 am

atavistA taste of Mexico  Sucess!


I made this climb while on spring break my senior year in college. I flew to DF on Friday evening, arrived at the hut on Saturday evening. I summitted on Tuesday. Having come straight from Indiana, I wasn't able to fully dodge the ill effects of altitude. On Wednesday I rode the bus to Oaxaca. I spent the rest of the week volunteering at an orphanage with a college group returning to Indiana just in time for class on Monday.
Posted Mar 2, 2006 4:29 am

chris615Normal/espolon  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 20, 2006


watching the sun rise was awesome, the glaicer was a bit icy but noting too bad. Made some new friends and met some great people
Posted Feb 22, 2006 5:50 am

Woodie HopperModified Jamapa glacier/Ruta Espinoza  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2006

Woodie Hopper

Great solo climb with perfect weather- 32F at the hut and summit with no wind on the summit! I spent 30 enjoyable minutes on the top. There was some ice covering the last 300 meters below the summit. "Oso" planted wands to help guide the route to the summit using the Ruta Espinoza.

Climbed the Ruta Espinoza Jan. 31, 2014 with perfect weather again with Mike Preece, Appleton Scutchfield and Ryan Swapp.
Posted Feb 14, 2006 2:03 pm

Dan WiedrichRoute Climbed: Espinoza route Date Climbed: January 15, 2006  Sucess!

Dan Wiedrich

My brother Chuck, Ray F and I made to the top about 9:30 am. We followed a guided group up. It was quite pleasant with little wind at the summit. It was a beautiful day! We started at 2 am from our tent near the hut and got back about 2:30 pm.

Posted Jan 19, 2006 5:15 pm

1mverticalRoute Climbed: Jampa - Espinoza Route Date Climbed: Jan 17, 2006  Sucess!


We climbed from high camp at 15,415', leaving camp at 3:15am, summited shortly after sunrise. The glacier condition was variable from a tough icy surface to crumbly snow. The most icy stuff was at the top, but a good kick would get the crampons planted. Traversing the crater rim was longer than I thought and the crater seems much bigger in real life. We also had fun climbing different routes throught the labyrinth, which also was our source for melt water.

Great peak, clear yet windy. We had 0 degrees F on the summit with probably 20mph steady winds.

For fun we brought a slope meter. While the route bumped into the lower 40's in a couple of spots, the steepest pitch I measured was in the labyrinth. Perhaps though, I did not measure the truly steepest spots.

All of the details, route photos, notes and video can be found on our Orizaba page at: http://orizaba.14erquest.com
Posted Jan 19, 2006 3:35 pm

CBakwinRoute Climbed: Jampa Date Climbed: January 14,2006  Sucess!


Left the hut at 2:15am,summited at 7:30,very icy but a beautiful fullmoon night. Fun day, back at Piedra Grande at 11:30am
Posted Jan 14, 2006 7:24 pm

Rick KentRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2006  Sucess!

Rick Kent

Had a great time climbing with Day Hiker and cp0915. The hut wasn't as bad as I expected. It was quite cold and rather windy on the glacier. Our exposed water bottles froze solid to the core. I wore fleece layers and insulated leather boots all of which worked fine. Though we brought a rope we opted not to rope up. We heard some reports that the angle of the upper slope on the glacier was up to 60 degrees but in our estimation it never exceeded 45. In the dark it seemed like we would never reach the summit. I reached the crater rim at 6:43am just in time to see the sun rise. The crater and the sunrise were amazing. The ascent took a little over 6 hours and the return was about 3 and half hours (sure felt longer though).
Posted Jan 13, 2006 1:24 pm

cp0915Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier (Espolon de Oro variation) Date Climbed: January 9, 2006  Sucess!


Despite some AMS issues, I summited in 6 hours from the hut. A bit icy in places, but the glacier was in excellent condition. A few, small novelty crevasses along the way...
Posted Jan 11, 2006 11:51 am

Day HikerRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2006

Day Hiker

Did this climb with cp0915 and rwkent. We did our best to acclimate for this mountain by summiting La Malinche and Nevado de Toluca in the preceeding days, as well as hiking up to 15700 feet on the Orizaba trail the day before summit day.

After lying in the climbers' hut (13950 feet) for about 4 hours and getting maybe 15 minutes of sleep, I started up the trail at around 00:47. It took about 6.5 hours to summit, including rest stops and time to put on boots and crampons. Partially from the miserable lack of sleep, partially from climbing a 40-degree snow slope with 10 pounds of boots and crampons on my feet, and largely from the high elevation, I was completely exhausted by the time I reached the summit.

Gaiters were worn, but they turned out to be unnecessary because the snow was firm. The whole climb was done without one single posthole, which is good, considering the combined weight of body, clothing, and gear was about 270 pounds.

There was a steady cold breeze from the west during the entire climb up the glacier, which made me enjoy the times I was traversing to the east and dread the times I had to switch back and traverse to the west. At the summit, there was a steady 15-20mph breeze, and the temperature was somewhere around 10F, which really wasn't too bad for 18500 feet in January. The sky was completely cloud free. Although I was too tired to enjoy it, it was a beautiful day.

My GPS gave a time-averaged summit elevation of 18505 feet. This is my highest summit elevation to date, and it probably will be for a while, unless I do some traveling outside the continent of North America. The two mountains in North America that are higher require sleeping in a tent at -40F/C and not showering for 3 weeks.
Posted Jan 11, 2006 2:23 am

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