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forjanRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: November 28, 2002

forjan

Just got back this past Sunday night (Dec. 1, 2002) from Mexico. It was not a successful trip.



My partner mdostby and I had caught the stomach flu the week before we left. We met on Sunday, November 17th, and hiked to the summit of Mount Baden-Powell (9,399 feet) in the Los Angeles National Forest. It turned out that Mike had caught the flu through his son and then passed it to me that Sunday. Regardless, we departed for Mexico on Saturday, November 23, 2002.



I climbed La Malinche (14,640 feet) on Monday, November 25th while Mike sat it out with a return of flu symptoms. After that, we went onto the base of the Pico de Orizaba on Tuesday, November 26th. We spent Tuesday night and Wednesday night sleeping at 14,000 feet on the bigger hut at Piedra Grande. We had planned summit day for Thanksgiving Day, Thursday, November 28th. Unfortunately, we got stormed out on our summit day. It started to rain Wednesday evening and visibility was poor. It rained pretty much all day Thursday 11/28 and it didn't let up. We spent Thanksgiving Day (Thursday, Nov. 28th) in the damp, leaky and crowded Piedra Grande hut. The weather did not seem to be lifting, so at 5:00pm Thursday we made the decision

to retreat off the mountain. Bad weather, at the time, forced us to abandon our summit bid. Next day (Friday, 11/29) as we traveled by bus to Puebla, Mexico, we realized we should have been more "PATIENT" as the weather cleared up on Friday.



While at base camp, we did day hike however to 15,500 feet on Tuesday afternoon, and then day hiked Wednesday morning a little bit beyond the lower glacier up to 15,800 feet.



I am currently planning to go back and attempt Pico de Orizaba solo in February 2003.

Posted Dec 4, 2002 2:17 pm

JohnRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Dec 1, 2002  Sucess!

John

Day hiked from Piedra Grande hut area with Bob, Vesna, and JW (James Wilson). Bob and I made the summit and had it all to ourselves. Vesna made it up to the crater rim (~18,200 feet) before turning back and JW turned back about half-way up the glacier. On our way down, Vesna was pretty sick so I stayed with her for a slow but safe descent. The clouds came in and visibility dropped to 30-60 feet at 17,600'+ which I personally thought was pretty cool. Vesna and I saved 2 very cold butterflies at 17,000 feet. I found and picked them up while she carried them down and released them at Piedra Grande. We were unroped and didn't run into any crevasses. We returned to Tlachichuca the same night.



The previous night at Piedra Grande, Bob and I used his TNF VE-25 tent, Vesna used her Eureka! TimberLite XT tent and JW stayed in the hut. On our acclimatization hike the previous day, I saw a SD Clip Flashlight tent at the ~15,000' camp. At Piedra Grande, there was a another VE-25 tent setup next to us that was apparently used by a Mexican climber named Hector who had summited Everest and is of some renown. I didn't see Hector but I believe Vesna saw him with one of the Cancholas.



It snowed about 4 days prior and the conditions were not good for skiing at all. About 1/2 - 1 inch of styrofoam over hardpack or wind-swept ice. While a ski descent was possible (esp. for someone who grew up skiing on New England boilerplate), I didn't ski and don't think skiing would have been much fun. The conditions were, however, great for cramponing. Bob did a great job improving the steps near the top of the glacier just below the rim for an easier descent.



Within the previous week, 2 Americans fell on the glacier and were not able to arrest. Apparently they had sat down on the glacier and then started to slide. They ended up crashing into some rocks, one with a broken hip and one with a head/skull injury. Needless to say, they had to be evacuated off the mountain.



We stayed in Tlachichuca with Joaquín Canchola Limón and used his services for 4WD transportation up to Piedra Grande and back. We hiked Orizaba without guides. On our way down we ran into a group of 3 from Colorado who just arrived at the hut and had paid US$1,500 each to be guided up Orizaba and La Malinche. They were shocked when I told them it was possible to do Kili for substantially less than the US$5,000 that one of their friends paid.



See my SP Trip Report for addional details.
Posted Dec 3, 2002 11:31 pm

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: November 28th 2002

mdostby

This was my second trip to Orizaba. Unfortunately it was not as successful as my 1999 trip. I did not summit due to bad weather. Spent nine days in Mexico with my good friend forjan who I met right here on SummitPost one year ago. This trip was plagued with problems before it even started. Both my climbing partner and myself caught the flu less than a week prior to our departure. On day three I relapsed with flu symtoms and sat out the LaMalinche climb. Day five bad weather moved in by 8:00 PM. Day six bad weather forced us to abondon our summit bid. We spent Thanksgiving day in the damp, leaky and crowded Piedra Grande hut. The weather did not seem to be lifting so we made the decision to retreat off the mountain at 5:00 PM. Day seven we realized we shoud have been more patient as the weather cleared up. By day eight my partner had caught a cold that stayed with him the rest of the trip. Basicly it seemed that this trip was not meant to happen.
Posted Dec 3, 2002 8:01 am

asmrzRoute Climbed: Standard Route from the hut Date Climbed: February 1982  Sucess!

asmrz

I climbed the Peak from the hut at 14k in February 1982. I remember some crevases half way up and another whopper headache on my way down. Great trip to test my breathing ability/lack of at higher elevations.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 10:14 pm

OregonNativeRoute Climbed: East Glacier, right couloir Date Climbed: Fall 2000  Sucess!
Climbed with V.S. hut to hut with empty packs. It was a nice time, but I've worked harder for routes 50 miles from my house and 10,000 feet lower. Secor states that techincally, the route is the most difficult on the mountain, but I wish I would have done more research. Some guy we met the night before hiked up to 16 with water and to carry our rope and jackets down as a kind gesture. I love that sort of thing.
Posted Nov 14, 2002 6:25 pm

edouetRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: 17 December 2001  Sucess!
Summit reached with Peter Anderson, from Missoula .



First day, started from Piedra Grande to find a place to sleep, at about 4800 m .

No tent, only sleeping bags . Sun is hidden by the mountain at 3.00 P.M.

The night was clear, and no wind : we were lucky !

Woke up 3.30. A.M.

Quiet walk to the Glacier, then hard and strenuous climb . No noise, only our breathes and the sound of the crampons on the ice .

After a 4 hour climb, we could dominate all MEXICO .

Great time of happiness !

48 minutes to go back to the foot of the glacier, whereas it took us 3 hours 30 from that point to the summit .
Posted Oct 26, 2002 2:03 am

climberkjpRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 1, 2002  Sucess!

climberkjp

Thought we were the first summit team of the year, until we saw a solo climber coming down five minutes from the top. Beautiful day, beautiful mountain.
Posted Oct 22, 2002 1:49 am

Craig PeerRoute Climbed: Standard route Date Climbed: 1976  Sucess!

Craig Peer

All I remember is a painfully early start, a long slog and a big altitude headache at the rim. But what a grand view!
Posted Sep 23, 2002 12:11 pm

tloganRoute Climbed: Ruta Sur Date Climbed: july14 2002  Sucess!

tlogan

What a beast of a mountain! It takes more than a few whacks at you to determine whether you are worthy or not... Found a small window of decent weather (which for Mexico in the last few weeks is miraculous) and went with it.

Went to the refugio from Sierra Negra (what a beautiful mountain) and then woke up at 1:15 after a cracking hours sleep, and was on the mountain by 2:30. The darkness seemed interminable... but at about 6:00 we donned crampons and changed things up... the snow was extremely firm and stayed that way until we reached the pulpit and then on to the summit.

Summited at about 7:45 after five and a quarter hours. Spent about 40 minutes up there.. was a little blustery for July (at least for me...)

The lights from Esperanza, Serdan and many other ciites was beautiful...

This climb was considerably more difficult than Izta... but was nonetheless an enjoyable climb despite the hyperdynamic weather that was changing by the minute.

At around 5500m started to feel the affects of altitude a little but that only slowed my guide Juan Hernandez and I a liitle.

A huge, challenging mountain... furthering my love affair with the mountains of Mexico!!!
Posted Jul 14, 2002 7:23 pm

El Tigre ValderramaRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 10 2002  Sucess!

El Tigre Valderrama

MY partner Tom Fralich and I arrived at the hut near piedra grande and started the climb the next day at about 2:30AM. We reached the summit about 6.5 hours later. The glacier was solid and hard neve in general, and since we were very well aclimatized and we were traveling light (no rope was needed given our ability on ice and snow and the angle of the climb, about 55 degrees) we traveled fast and we were back to Tachichuca by the end of the day.
Posted Jun 15, 2002 9:34 pm

patowRoute Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: Dec 2001  Sucess!

patow

Solo ascent of the east couloir
Posted May 24, 2002 3:47 pm

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 10, 2002  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

Arrived at Piedra Grande on January 9 and left for the summit that night at 2:30 AM. My partner Juan Valderrama and I climbed unroped to the summit in about 6 hours and returned to Piedra Grande before noon. Because of our prior acclimatization and alpine style approach, we were able to travel to the hut, climb to the summit, and return to Tlachichuca in less than 24 hours. For more details of my climb on Orizaba, check out my Trip Report.
Posted Mar 7, 2002 9:43 pm

beautifulday2bealiveRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: March 1996  Sucess!
Beautiful day...clear, cool, slightly windy. Left warming hut at 2:00am. Beautiful sunrise on the glacier. Summited around 11:30, back at the hut about 3:30. No complications. I was a little disappointed with the summit...seemed a little trashy...and a little light on snow that year...but what a view down into the core of the volcano!



Went with guided group lead by Robert Link. Fabulous guide...great time.
Posted Mar 4, 2002 10:40 pm

Bernhard SauerRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: January 1987  Sucess!

Bernhard Sauer

Solo...

intended to fly with my paraglider...unfortunately it was far to windy and I carried it back to the hut
Posted Jan 25, 2002 2:43 am

GuiltyRoute Climbed: Normal/Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: February 22, 2000  Sucess!

Guilty

After stashing my gear, I left from the small hut at Piedra Grande at 3:45am. I saw no other climbers that day as I ascend up. The early morning was windy which made it for a clear summit day. About half way on the glacier, I was jolted by a very loud crackling of the ice. Of course, this made me climb faster the rest of the day . I summit at 7:40am and was back at camp at 9:43am. Hut to Hut, less then 6 hours.
Posted Dec 1, 2001 3:27 pm

ZekeRoute Climbed: Standard Route/Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Feb 2000  Sucess!

Zeke

Great climb, long 12 hour day. but the summit was sunny and warm. we had a great day.

See: www.theronewelch.com for a detailed description.

but try to get the beer can hut.. we were rudely kept awake by other climbers on our first night there in the big hut. So sleep was difficult.

also, pay respect to those passed away on the moutain at the side of the beer can hut in a memorial area.
Posted Nov 28, 2001 1:02 pm

ElwoodRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 2/98  Sucess!

Elwood

After learning a little altitude lesson on Izta. All of us who attempted Orizaba were successful (3 out of 3). This was a much more enjoyable mountain for myself, because it allowed you to use some mountaineering skills. The route was straight forward, although long, not to steep, & had no real crevasse danger. Good fun! Just remember to bring some dry clothes along for the ride back to Tlachichuca. We used Sr. Reyes back then, & thought he was quite expensive for his services rendered. Maybe now he has some competition, & we'll have an alternative to high prices! Let me know?
Posted Oct 23, 2001 8:18 pm

LudovicRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July, 13th, 2001  Sucess!
With 3 friends, we summited with perfect weather conditions. During our stay, we notice the weather is clear until 12, often cloudy during the afternoon, stormy on the evening. We don't see anybody during the 2 days on Orizaba, that's really wonderful to have such mountain alone.

We leave the hut (normal route by Piedra Grande) at 2, reach the summit at 8. The route from the hut is clearly indicated by cairns and signs on the left bank of the lava flow.

About the track for Piedra Grande, all prices I've seen to go from Tlachichuca are really huge (35 to 50 USD per person ?), we go with our rental car (Chevrolet Chevy or Opel Corsa in Europe) to the hut, loaded with 4 persons and 6 rucksack. The track was dry, ok, but it was not very difficult. Enjoy the trip !
Posted Jul 25, 2001 5:10 am

UliRoute Climbed: Zic-Zac-Variation of Jamapa-Route, lost my way! Date Climbed: Mar. 5, 2000  Sucess!

Uli

Started as a party of three. Reached the summit on my own. On the lower portion of the glacier (at about 4.900m) I turned right and headed for fhe saddle south of the Sarcofago. It was still dark so I missed the existing track. When the slope became steeper and steeper I started to feel unsafe. After a short break I turned left still climbing up. In the early morning light I fortunately crossed the track. At 8 o'clock am I was on the summit. On my way up I enjoyed an impressing sunrise. My highest peak at that time.
Posted Mar 27, 2001 5:29 am

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Direct Variation of the Jamapa Glacier route Date Climbed: January 1999  Sucess!

mdostby

After summiting Ixta two days eariler I was anxious to attempt Orizaba. After reaching the glacier we turned to the right and ascended a very direct line to just below the summit. Mostly a 30 to 35 degree slope with the upper section getting fairly steep. Maybe a 50 to 55 degree climb. Set protection on the upper part. Descended the normal route.
Posted Mar 24, 2001 8:18 pm

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