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Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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Date Climbed: Dec 15, 2007


Finally I had chance to do it, it is by now the best climbing I´ve ever done, very challenge I had never been hiking or climbing on snow so it was a great experience...
The information on this page was very useful.
Posted Dec 18, 2007 9:50 pm

emilieJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 14, 2007


not technical at all but a tough climb - the glacier just seems to go on and on. we had near perfect conditions and set a high camp at around 15.5kft for the summit bid. we acclimatized on nevado de toluca and la maliche and i felt the best ever at that altitude.
Posted Dec 17, 2007 11:41 am

UnceBanyoSkied the Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 21, 2007
Dmandave and I skied from the summit of Pico De Orizaba down the Jamapa Glacier, Dave on alpine skis, me on my trusty ol' snowboard. The run ended up being 1900ft of vert. We hit a nice powderstash near 18,000ft, then icyness the rest of the way down. At one point it was icy enough that i could not keep an edge, and had to self arrest with my axe several times. All and all an AMAZING descent and the most exciting turns of my life!
Posted Dec 13, 2007 12:50 am

Moogie737Jamapa Glacier - single push  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 6, 2007


Along with 10 others from the Serac Mountaineering Club of Orem, UT, reached the summit on a cloudy, windy morning. We left the Piedra Grande hut at 1:35 am and all of us were on the summit before 9 am, but not all at the same time. Lots of west wind made for cold going on the glacier. Wonderful climb, all in all. On Tuesday all of us had summited Ixta, and that climb was a great acclimatization tool.
Posted Dec 12, 2007 1:11 pm



Have been thinking about this one for a while. Unfortunately time is not on my side. Do we get a TR :-) ?
Posted Nov 26, 2007 3:51 pm

eferesenGreat Weather  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 21, 2007


Excellent day and perfect snow conditions. The mountains gods were smiling. 7hrs up and 4 hrs down
Posted Nov 25, 2007 1:23 am

MtnMagicJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 7, 1997


My very first significant climbing trip. Was absolutely stoked despite the route being little more than a slog up a huge mountain. Enjoying the mexican countryside and hospitality were definitely highpoints of this trip.
Posted Oct 14, 2007 1:27 pm

ferdinandverboomjamapa glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 3, 2006


Nice route, I enjoyed it very much. I had a very nice guide from tlachichuca: roberto rodriguez flores.
Posted Sep 6, 2007 6:37 am

Sara_MatisseOrizaba Rocks:)  Sucess!


Climbed Orizaba directly after Ixta. Went and spent one night in Puebla (Hotel Colonial Rocks!) and then continued on to Tlachichuca where we found a ride up to the Piedra Grande Hut the same day (and what we had hoped for). We set our tent outside to stay away from the snoring people - and it turns out a good thing because some guy decided to lose his cookies in there..(Gross I know) We did a day hike/route check the following day and went to bed early for our summit bid. We took off following an RMI group led by Pete A. - great guy! Summited late after having to negotiate the VERY icy labyrinth. Got down in time to catch a ride down with Mick and group from Mountain Madness.
Posted Aug 11, 2007 11:22 am

Shirley LamI like the dayhike...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2006

Shirley Lam

Acclimatized on Izta and was able to do Orizaba as a dayhike.

This worked MUCH better than the previous year's multi-day attempt. We were dropped off at Hidalgo because it was raining so hard the 4WD vehicles couldn't make it up the roads. We camped at 12k, Piedra Grande, and at 15k (just before the Maze). By the time we got to the crater rim, we reached our turn-around time...early in the day since we had to hike all the way back to Hidalgo for our pick-up!

Although both trips were fun and memorable, I would definitely opt to repeat the dayhike.
Posted Jul 26, 2007 4:13 pm

ahaassahaass  Sucess!


Group of nine from Texas and California. Big dayhike!! Awesome weather.
Posted Jul 23, 2007 10:18 pm

deungsanSecond Time's a Charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 6, 2000


Great trip, nice views, few dangers.
Posted Jul 16, 2007 1:40 am



Attempted climb Thanksgiving 2005. Skipped acclimatization day due to incoming weather. Didn't quite make the summit turning around 800 feet below the crater. Will return soon.
Posted Jul 15, 2007 11:17 am

dioidRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 23, 2006


Climbed with Rinat. Super fast trip. San Diego to San Diego in four days. Very lacky with weather. Great trip.
Posted Jul 4, 2007 6:37 am

pjc30943standard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 24, 2007
A trip planned by SP member hashfxn.
Round trip from the huts was ~15 hours, in part due to slow going in the labyrinth. Summit at 10:30am, left at 1:30am.
The glacier was very solid, was not steep, and we left all our pro and rope at its base with no reservations. Temps were quite cold, and in general it was very windy--especially at the summit--but the sky was as clear as blue crystal... Very nice conditions overall.
Posted Apr 15, 2007 7:04 pm

doumallWell worth the trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 27, 2007


A memorable and smooth 48 hours on the mountain with my girl Debbie. Jampa Glacier route. Hung out and slept the first afternoon at Piedra Grande, acclimatization hike to 17000' the next day and back to camp, then next morning 6 hours from Piedra to the summit. Felt very strong until 18,000'. I think frequent winter trips in Colorado, tons of water and this acclimatization scheme were perfect prep for this mountain. Would have been ~45mins quicker if not for a lost bag of gear on our flight in, only one shotty headlamp through the labrinth was slow going.

Glacier is dying, was in very easy climbing condition with small penetites. Go soon, or this route will be a scree slog through and through. Teotihuacan, Mexico City urban and historic districs and Izta were also parts of this trip.
Posted Apr 5, 2007 5:24 pm

shanahan96first glacier climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 30, 2007


jamie nellis and i summited oribaza(18,512') on march 30th 2007. this was a special summit for us. it was our first glacier together and a capper on a successful first international climbing expedition.

the mountain is flat-out gorgeous! unbelievable time!

Posted Apr 5, 2007 12:16 pm

El_CapitanFollow the "Oso"  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 22, 2007
Climbed this with climbmn and another friend. Much thanks to the "Oso", Roberto Flores a local guide, for giving us directions all day and letting us follow him and his client up the mountain. Took a lot longer then I ever expected, 17 hours round trip. If you are thinking about Pico, I would highly suggest you hire "Oso" as your guide as his prices are quite reasonable and the routefinding can be tricky in the dark. We would not have been successful without his guidance (even though we weren't his paying clients).
Posted Mar 3, 2007 4:10 am

climbmnJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 22, 2007


Perfect day for this climb. Sunny, very little wind, and great temperatures. Glacier was just like styrofoam, perfect with the crampons. Summitted around 10:30 am. Great experience!
Posted Feb 26, 2007 4:15 am

Mescalito345Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2007


On 01/01/07, we woke up at midnight to attempt Orizaba. The winds had died down, but the valley below was covered in clouds. We put on crampons, and climbed up some icy chutes between the rocks. After climbing to about 16,000 feet, a thick fog moved in. It looked like we might have to turn around, but finally the clouds broke, and we could see the rising sun.

At around 6:00 a.m., we roped up and started the long slog up the glacier. The lower glacier was icy, and it was hard to penetrate the ice with an axe. We continued upwards at a slow but steady pace. I found that the cross-over step (French technique) worked the best on the steeper slopes. We finally reached the summit (18,500 feet) at around 10:00 a.m. The valleys below us were covered in clouds, but it was sunny on the peak. We took some pictures of the summit crater, and then headed back down.

Posted Feb 25, 2007 3:26 pm

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