Like all the other peaks, which are lower than 6000m this one is uninteresting for nearly everyone. Because of this reason we may have been the first on summit, or the first on the northwest- ridge (august 2002, Paul Saß, Sebastian Wolf, Markus Kautz, Axel Grußer). We could not find any information over there in kyrgistan. If you know something, please tell it to me.
How ever, the northwest- ridge offers a great climb on a beautiful line from engilchek- glacier to the summit and it is not too far from basecamp of Khan Tengri and Pobjeda.
The following is written only for this ridge, but the mountain should also be reached by proletarsky- or komsomolez- glacier.
The name “becherovka” was given by us.
For more information about the region read the expedition report of our cartographic-expedition 2002.
Getting There[img:173453:alignleft:small:hold your breaks as short as possible][img:173475:alignleft:small:deep water bowling][img:173473:alignleft:small:we had to pass this bridge on our way down on the engilchek glacier]
Look at the page of Khan Tengri or Pik
You have to gain the same base camp on engilchek- glacier. From there you need a complete day to reach the bottom of the peak . Walk the evil stone packed glacier on the best line, you can find. It is impressive but not funny. Keep on smiling, while thinking bullshit. The map shows the direction.
CampsFind a place on the southern bank of engilchek- glacier, where you can place your tent and where it is possible to start early in the dark, without route- finding- special. Be watchful to find a place with water for cooking.
Red TapeMaybe you need a trekking permit, but please have a look at other pages of Tien Shan for the most actual information.
Routes[img:173477:alignleft:medium:glaciers like snakes]
I only know about our accent of the northwest- ridge. We called it “Devil´s ridge”. It is possible, that there is easier ground on the east slpoes from proletarsky- glacier.
- “Devil´s ridge”, 1100m, AD+, ice and snow up to 55°/60° and loose rock (variant, which should be chosen if avalanche danger rises during the day) For details look at “routes”
[img:173483:alignleft:medium:climbing the ridge near the summit]