Pik Lenin Climber's Log
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|andre hangaard||Three weeks on Lenin|
|Me and my partner Johan Dahlström (SWE) spent three weeks on Pik Lenin between 1-21 August 2014. During the first two weeks the weather was ok but in the end it unfortunately became worse. The winds increased and so did the snow.|
After a load carry to C3 (6200m) we had to return to ABC. On August 15th the weather improved slightly just after a snow storm and we pushed to C3. We spent three nigths at C3 with a summit bid on the 18th where we were forced to abort the climb at around 6400m. We made the summit bid together with Rumen Radev (BGR).
Despite no summit we had three great weeks in the Pamir mountains. We used the transport and base camp service of Ak-Sai Travel. The people we came across were all very nice and friendly. What an exciting region! I do hope to get back one day.
|Posted Dec 30, 2013 9:44 am|
|kevin trieu||Cold! |
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2013
|Made the summit from camp 2.5 at about 5,800m on a bitterly cold day after almost three weeks on the mountain. One of the less dramatic summits I've been on.|
|Posted Aug 20, 2013 11:53 am|
|fubar7500||Normal route |
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2013
|At all, great weeks in Pamir.|
Summiting via normal route from C4 (6400) with 2 friends
(after 5 days waiting for better weather). While descending to C2, we had to escort german mountainer with high-altitude sickness.
|Posted Aug 12, 2013 7:02 am|
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2013
|With partner Mike Y from the 6200 m camp along with Kazach, Tajik and Austrian teams. All have been waiting for the right weather window. The forecast didn't disappoint. |
Thanks to Andrey from Almaty for making the climb look easy on summit day. Thankfully I didn't know at the time that he is a Snow Leopard and has a few 8K peaks on his resume :-)
|Posted Aug 1, 2013 7:46 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013
|Fairly straightforward climb, bit windy on the summit ridge. Lots of crevasses both hidden and obvious from camp 1 to camp 2, with one opening up right in the middle of camp 2. In 8 days we had two days of suitable summit/high climbing weather and were able to use this window and a shitty day before to make the summit push. A lot of snow and hard work breaking an early season trail but on the way down it was a well compacted and flagged highway with at least 50 climbers moving up from camp 1 over two days. Easy to do independently, my partner and I got permits in Osh in two days from Osh guesthouse and transport to BC and back organised off the cuff for 50 bucks each way. Lots of independent and solo climbers to hook up with for the crevasse section too. Nice climb!|
|Posted Jul 22, 2013 10:55 am|
|Rusnborg||normal route |
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2012
|I am with clients summited 13.30 - 11 august 2012. Start from camp 3, 6100m 4.00 a.m. Come back 8.00 p.m. All day the weather is not good - windy and cloudy, in the evening blizard.|
|Posted Jan 12, 2013 4:17 am|
|matous||normal route |
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2012
|used no porters or guides. deep snows and strong winds... quite challenging compared to for example Aconcagua... pushed our luck and summited 15:00|
|Posted Jan 8, 2013 6:12 am|
|IvanBraunDK||Summited after 3 days of storm in Camp 4 |
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2012
|We summited after riding off a storm at Camp 4 at 6400m|
They say its the easiest 7000m - well there isn't much easy at 7000m :)
A long tiring route without the biggest objective dangers
|Posted Oct 16, 2012 2:55 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2008
|My first potential summit attempt was wasted because of a weather phenomenon wich seems to be peculiar to the mountain: In the second half of the night started ferocious wind blowing from the S above 6000m, but it stopped in the late morning hours. Next day repeated everything but this time I ignored the morning wind and summitted successful. This fenomenon was confirmed by others climbed in other years. It seems to be usual that an unfriendly cold and windy morning may followed by a suitable summit day.|
Glacier: crevasse problems may escalate (signs of climate change?) There were crevasses on the slope over C2 as well and Camp2 self had to move to the scree slope because of a huge crevasse wich opened directly below the camp while we had been in C3.
|Posted Aug 30, 2010 4:32 pm|
|boriskrielen||Route climbed: normal route|
Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2002
|Ramon Sijmons and I joined an international group of climbers under Russian organisation. Some nice guys, but most of them were only thinking about their own summit attempt and not at all about the team. That's often a common problem with commercial international groups.|
My climbing mate turned sick and had to descent. I tried again solo but had to descent as well at 6.800m because of the weather and almost frozen feet. Will be back one day though! :D
|Posted Feb 18, 2009 5:27 am|
|alexclimb||Route Climbed: Normal |
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008
|On a beautiful morning climbed the top with a clients. Exceptional views of all the most significant Pamir mountains including Peak Communizm and Peak Korjenevskoy. Very long and tough mountain. Good acclimatization is essential. Crowds and lots of rubbish everywhere.|
Useful info: never use the Kyrgyz operator Fortuna Tour as your
service provider for Peak Lenin climb! Doing this would be wasting your money. They broke all the conditions of our agreement and the service was real shit. Example: we paid for the food and accommodation in their BC, which was taken down while our stay on the mountain!
|Posted Dec 13, 2008 12:44 pm|
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008
|Started very late (around 6:30 a.m. from C3) and reached about 7050 m before turning around :-(( at about 3:30 p.m., which was set as 'turn-around-time'. Started with perfect conditions - clear blue sky, not too cold and only little wind. In the afternoon weather started to deteriorate, but reached C3 without problems. Probably the best summit day for the next days.|
|Posted Aug 20, 2008 3:34 am|
|2004, 2006 and 2008. Always beutyful peak. Climb Pik 19, Dzerzinskij, Razdelnaya also.|
|Posted Aug 2, 2008 2:55 am|
|Although we had nice weather overall, a rescue and heavy snowfall caused our summit attempt to fail. Serious avalange danger to climb further than the saddle in front of Peak Razdelnaya at 5800 mtr. Highest point we reached was Peak Razdelnaya during acclimatization.|
Although no summit it was a great experience and made me hungry for the next trip!
|Posted Sep 28, 2007 6:12 am|
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2007
|No summit this time ! |
Heavy snow during the 3 previous days stopped our summit bid.
Waiting in the overheated tent for days was however the hardest thing to deal with... I´ll know for next time.
So much climbing potential in Kyrgyzstan and really cool people.
|Posted Aug 31, 2007 11:19 am|
|saulius||Route Climbed: Normal / Razdelnaya |
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2007
|Despite the symbolic date and a two-day snowfall beforehand we managed to reach the top. Some of us had cold feet and had to do occasional breaks to warm ourselves, but fortunately, there was almost no wind on the ridge that day. Overall, the season of 2007 is notorious for changing weather and strong winds. |
I totally agree with Corax that double boots is a must for the peak (it's not only cold but the altitude that makes your toes freeze). I had problems with my overconfidence and Scarpa Cumbre above 6000 m.
I would also recommend taking an ice axe to the summit - you will feel a lot more comfortable with it on the Knife (although poles might also work fine IF you promise yourself not to slip).
|Posted Aug 26, 2007 1:08 pm|
|missadventure||Route: Normal Route|
|Climbed as an independent group with one partner. Used Asia Mountains for logistics. They did a great job of setting up transport and feeding us properly at camp 1 and 2. Also set up a great tour of Uzbekistan.|
Didn't make the summit. Was there a bit too early in the climbing season and got turned back by weather. Spent 5 days in a storm at camp 3 - several tents were blown down! Be careful about stashing gear here and collapse your tent if you are going to leave it behind!!
Make sure you leave time in your trip to see the beautiful country of Kyrgystan :)
|Posted Feb 23, 2007 2:50 pm|
|nesnegroj||Route: Normal route|
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2005
|Suffered badly from stomach problems, and had to abandon the climb without summiting.|
|Posted May 16, 2006 6:47 pm|
|ferro_hr||Route Climbed: Razdelnaya Date Climbed: August 3rd, 2005|
|I'm from Croatia and this was my first climb above 4800m. Reached the summit after 10 days in mountain, by the classical route, relatively easy, very happy about it. |
Looking for contact with Jirzy from Plzen who was on the summit with me, and Christian, Austrian guide whom I met on C3 and later on C1.
And one other question. About the "real summit". There are three prominent tops on the summit ridge. I was told the middle one is the highest, and there I found this wooden stick with some www adress on top of it, and broken ski pole next to it. I heard others says that the farthest one is three meters higher, but I didn't go there. So, anybody knows the real heights of those tops?
|Posted Nov 4, 2005 2:46 am|
|Koen Regout||Route Climbed: Standard route Date Climbed: 14 August 2005|
|Summitted Peak Lenin on 14th of August, after a long climb (10 hrs) to the summit with high wind conditions. Cold feet but beautifull views. |
Had a hard time on 'the Knife' after theoretical Camp 4.
We left Camp 3 at 06.00 hrs in a just rising sun. Hit the summit at 15.58 (an hour after official returning time, Oleg (my experienced guide through ITC / Asia Mountains) argued that the good weather would give us longer light...).
Return was tough due to again high winds and longitude. At last light (20.00 hrs) we passed Camp 3 in the saddle, being now punished for the fact having build our own Camp 3 at Razdalnaya Peak (approx 80 metres higher up towards Camp 2...). Argument at building it was that the next day leaving, you would not have to reclimb R. Peak first (and much more space, which where both correct). Result was that at the maximum end of our resources, we still had to make the 80 metres up to the tent with the sun by far gone.
In complete darkness, by 21.00 hrs we reached the tent, devistated but extremely happy. Did it! Peak Lenin, 7134 m! Cognac and soup where served by Oleg...
Aprox temperatures varied between minus 29 (at 06.00 hrs) and -10/15 later through the day. Wind was hard to estimate, but definately at the most exposed parts (up to 40% of the trip) they felt as up to Beaufort 7/8... Ridiculous.
Best time to climb this year was definately mid August (many expeditions either failed completely or only managed just some of the members, mainly due to too much snow and too cold conditions)
Take care and enjoy this beautifull mountain.
|Posted Aug 20, 2005 3:24 am|