”Petite Capucin” (Elevation ca. 12,250 feet)
Yosemite National Park, California, USA
First ascent August 1979
The Pilar Route (II, 5.10a) is one of only two known rock climbs on the "Petite Capucin." This route is significant because it involves jumping from the summit of The Pillar over to a ledge on the main tower.
Route DescriptionFIRST ASCENT DETAILS (August 1979):
First Pitch: Ascend easy arches to a good belay stance at the base of the Pillar (5.6).
Second Pitch: Ascend a steep wide crack up the outside of The Pillar (5.8) and eventually move into the narrow chimney between The Pillar and the main spire. Belay in the notch between The Pillar and the main spire.
Third Pitch: Ascend to the top of The Pillar and jump (!) across to a ledge on the main spire. Alternatively, you can ascend very overhanging cracks from the notch to the ledge. Belay at the base of a very steep left-facing open book.
Fourth Pitch: Ascend thin cracks, pass a good-sized roof (5.10a) and continue up the very steep left-facing open book. Belay just below the summit.
Summit Pitch: Very short (25 feet). The summit flake is more wide than it is tall, so it does not provide for a very good belay.
DescentAfter 30 years, my memory of the descent route is a bit foggy. I believe that you can rappell either southeast or southwest to get off the summit.
If you rappell southwest, into Matterhorn Peak's East Couloir, this photos shows the descent route: