Prospector Crag

Overview

Rising high over the road, Prospector Crag seems to be the best and most-developed crag in the Memorial Falls. FAs of almost all the routes currently established were by Great Falls residents Brian and Abby Thompson, with development starting in 2014.

The crag has an upper and a lower tier, with a prominent ledge being the start for climbs on the upper tier; a gully on the east side of the crag provides access to both the ledge and the top. Most, if not all, routes have bolted anchors, and the crag itself is a mix of sport and trad routes. All routes appear to be just a single pitch, but they can get up to 150'.

Holds on the Neihart quartzite, found here and in only two other places in the world, feel great, but there is plenty of choss about, so be careful. As this is a pretty "new" crag and one that does not attract mobs due to its remote location, some routes are still cleaning up a bit.

Getting There

Drive south of Neihart for less than two miles and park at a prominent roadside campsite on the right. If you reach the parking area for Memorial Falls, you have gone too far. For those coming from the south, the pullout is a quarter-mile past the falls parking and on the left.

From the pullout is a clear view of the crag high and across the road. A climbers trail takes you up to the base (10-15 minutes). The trail can be hard to spot at the beginning, but it is there; cross the road and scan uphill for cairns if you need to. In July 2019, there was a cairn marking the "official" start directly across the road from the campsite's fire ring.

Routes

Listed left to right, and based on Thompson's Mountain Project page:

The following routes are on the upper tier:

• High Ore, 5.8, TR
• Gold Rush, 5.10a, Sport
• Tap'er Light, 5.10d, TR
• The Shaft, 5.6, Trad
• Canaries May Fly, 5.6, Trad

Starting from the base:

• Rolling Stones, 5.8, Trad
• Walk the Line, 5.10b, Sport
• Empire Crack, 5.7+, Trad
• Neversweat, 5.11a, Sport
• Irradiance, 5.10a, Trad
• House of Cards, 5.10a, Trad
• It Goes to Eleven, 5.11a, TR
• Hard Movement, 5.9-, Sport
• Crack Stuffer, 5.6, Trad
• Simple Math, 5.9-, Sport
• Mandibular Disjunction, 5.7, TR
• Big Momma, 5.9, Trad
• Sorbet, 5.7, Sport
• Practice Wall, 5.5-5.6, TR
• Young Cannibals, 5.6, Trad
• Meat Grinder, 5.10a, TR (there is a plan to add bolts)
• Pleasant Overhangs, 5.10b, Trad

Red Tape

None.

When to Climb

Spring through fall.

Camping

Use the campsite area where you park, find a Forest Service site in the area, or go dispersed.