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Punta di Lasa - Orgelspitze Normal route from Val Martello
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Punta di Lasa - Orgelspitze Normal route from Val Martello

 
Punta di Lasa - Orgelspitze Normal route from Val Martello

Page Type: Route

Location: Bolzano - Alto Adige, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.56276°N / 10.71785°E

Object Title: Punta di Lasa - Orgelspitze Normal route from Val Martello

Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Alpine F

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: May 29, 2015 / Jan 31, 2017

Object ID: 941378

Hits: 678 

Page Score: 83.69%  - 17 Votes 

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Overview

Punta Lasa or Laaser Spitze or Orgelspitze Normal route from South (Val Martello)





Surrounded by Lasa, Venosta and Martello valleys, Punta di Lasa belonging to the Ortles-Cevedale Group and overlooking the little village of Lasa in Venosta Valley is well seen watching towards South from this latter; it’s the most important summit belonging to the Lasa Subgroup and it shows four ridges and a small glacier. This remarkable peak has three name: Punta di Lasa is the official Italian name, while the local names are Laaser Spitze for the inhabitants of Venosta Valley and Orgelspitze for the inhabitants of Martello Valley. This latter name seems to originate from the german word “Orgg”, in reason of the ancient legend concerning an ogre who had lived on the mountain. According to another interpretation, the name would do reference to the term "Arge Spitze", meaning Menacing Peak, as the first signs of the onset of bad weather would appear on the top of this mountain.



The Orgelspitze from the north eastPunta di Lasa - Orgelspitze seen from North East - Ph. EricChu


Being a primary panoramic point, the peak is often climbed along its interesting Normal Route starting from Maso Stallwies located in Val Martello Valley side. From the summit the mountaineer can enjoy an incredible contrasting view between Ortles-Cevedale white summits and Val Venosta green meadows.

Ortles-Cevedale group seen from Punta di Lasa summit ridgeOrtles-Cevedale group seen from Punta di Lasa summit ridge

Getting There

The road approach is from Bolzano.

- from the Autobrennero exit Bolzano and follow the road to Merano and Valle Venosta, reaching Coldrano – Goldrain. Here leave the main Val Venosta and turn to left, taking the road to Val Martello, getting to the village of Ganda - Gand. In Ganda turn to right (signposts)and follow the winding and narrow road to Maso Stallwies m. 1931. Parking

Wooden mill along Punta di Lasa Normal route
Wooden mill along the route
Zufrittspitze and Cima Sternai
Zufrittspitze and Cima Sternai - ph. Szani Uherkovich
Punta di Lasa - Orgelspitze summit ridge
Summit ridge

Route Description

Route report

Difficulty: the route is long and steep, but essentialy a walk in the first section, then an easy scramble when climbed in summer condition
May be graded Alpine F in last spring or early summer, when it becomes a bit more difficult, requiring the use of crampons and axe

Difference in level: 1373 m. from Maso Stallwies m. 1931

Exposure: South

Time required: 4 hours for the ascent, about 3 hours for the descent

Peaks of Ortles - Cevedale group seen from Punta di Lasa m
Punta di Lasa summit ridge

Punta di Lasa summit ridge
Big cairn on Punta di Lasa summit ridge



From Maso Stallwies m. 1931 take the path n. 5 rising inside a wonderful pines and larchs wood and skirting a stream, then crossing the stream. Ignore on the right side at first the path n. 23 (Marteller Hohenweg), then the path n. 23a (Schlichtbergsteig) and head to North West, always following the path n. 5; the route rises along a steep valloon on grassy and scree slopes, leading to a shoulder and a nice small lake, called Laghetto Sassobuco or Steinmanngasseloch at the altitude of 2935. Now the steep summit pyramid is visible. Head to North and climb the steep face on stones or snow slopes in early season, gaining the South East ridge, then the summit cross (summit book) and the huge cairns built on the top. Superb view on the Alpi Venoste and Ortles-Cevedale Group.

Hasenöhrl seen from west from...
Orecchia di Lepre/Hasenöhrl seen from the summit - Ph. Mathias Zehring

Snow slopes below the summit
Snow slopes



Descent: follow the same route.

Essential Gear

High mountain gear. In presence of snow and ice, possible in early season, crampons and an axe are required to climb the summit pyramid.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required. Punta di Lasa is situated inside Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, one of the hystorical national parks in Italy, belonging to the provinces of Trento, Bolzano and Sondrio. Free camping is not allowed and fires are forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected.

When to climb

Mountaineering: from the end of May to middle October
Ski mountaineering: from March to the end of April

Accomodation

Maso Stallwies has some rooms. Otherwise different possibilities of accomodation in Martello Valley

Meteo

METEO PROVINCIA BOLZANO ALTO-ADIGE

Guidewbooks and maps

 
Punta di Lasa map
 





Guidebooks

“Prestigiosi Tremila del Sud Tirolo” by Hanspaul Menara – Ed. Athesia

“Ortles-Cevedale – Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio” by Gino Buscaini – Collana CAI-TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia

“Alto Adige Occidentale” Guida alpinistica escursionistica by Achille Gadler – Panorama ed.


Maps

“Ortles-Cevedale”, sheet 72 - Kompass 1:50.000
"Val Venosta", sheet 52 - Kompass 1:50.000
"Laces-Martello-Silandro", sheet 045 - Tabacco

Images

Cima Venezia as seen from OrgelspitzePeaks of Ortles - Cevedale group seen from Punta di LasaOrtles-Cevedale group seen from Punta di Lasa summit ridgeWooden mill along Punta di Lasa Normal routeView to the Orgelspitze/Punta di LasaPunta di Lasa summit ridgePunta di Lasa summit ridge
Hasenöhrl seen from west from...The Orgelspitze from the north eastSnow slopes below the summitPunta di Lasa - Orgelspitze summit ridgeStarting to climb the summit snow slopes, Punta di LasaSummiting Punta di LasaOld watermill at the start of the climb, Punta di Lasa
[ View Gallery - 5 More Images ]