I do not recall needing anything like that kind of a rack for this route, especially the double set of 3-4 inch cams. The crux is fingers/hands size, the second crux is more face like with thin tcu's and nuts as I recall. Where the cracks are larger the terrain is quite easy and there is alternative pro as well. We did have some extra old hexes with which we left behind to back up the rap anchors, since at that time it was mandatory to rap the line of ascent...
The middle of pitch 4 checked in at 3-4 inches, just before the roof. Although there are bolts along this crack, they are 1/4" bolts and very old. That's where I used the big pieces on the rack, and when I found the 5.11 face above, I was pretty happy to have the stuff plugged in below me.
I agree that the bigger cracks above are easy, and even have chickenheads that make nice pro. (Chickenheads which also snag the occasional rap rope!)
I'd like to climb, but I had a shoulder overhaul in October and am doing the therapy thing now. It's doing very well and I should be able to do some winter mountaineering of the slogging variety beginning next month. Rock in June. I will be in the Meadows first week of August...
ksolem - Jan 8, 2005 11:13 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI do not recall needing anything like that kind of a rack for this route, especially the double set of 3-4 inch cams. The crux is fingers/hands size, the second crux is more face like with thin tcu's and nuts as I recall. Where the cracks are larger the terrain is quite easy and there is alternative pro as well. We did have some extra old hexes with which we left behind to back up the rap anchors, since at that time it was mandatory to rap the line of ascent...
brutus of wyde - Jan 9, 2005 12:15 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe middle of pitch 4 checked in at 3-4 inches, just before the roof. Although there are bolts along this crack, they are 1/4" bolts and very old. That's where I used the big pieces on the rack, and when I found the 5.11 face above, I was pretty happy to have the stuff plugged in below me.
I agree that the bigger cracks above are easy, and even have chickenheads that make nice pro. (Chickenheads which also snag the occasional rap rope!)
Thanks for the comments! wild place, eh?
ksolem - Jan 9, 2005 12:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentYeah, you're probably right. I am always looking for excuses to carry lees stuff. I think we had doubles from 3/4 to 2.5 inches and nothing over 3.5.
I remenber those very old bolts, one had a hanger spinning in the breeze which sounded like a Bhuddist wind chime.
ksolem - Jan 10, 2005 10:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe direct start is so obviously the right way to go it never occurred to me to do anything else.
Nice picture. I hope you backed that on up. I know we did!
Hey are you the same "JD" I met in Indian Cove about 14 months ago? Whats up?
ksolem - Jan 12, 2005 2:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI'd like to climb, but I had a shoulder overhaul in October and am doing the therapy thing now. It's doing very well and I should be able to do some winter mountaineering of the slogging variety beginning next month. Rock in June. I will be in the Meadows first week of August...