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Remorse (Variation)
Route

Remorse (Variation)

 
Remorse (Variation)

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Object Title: Remorse (Variation)

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.8

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: May 24, 2004 / Dec 5, 2005

Object ID: 161038

Hits: 3583 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


Follow the directions on the main page for Snow Creek Wall to reach the base of the wall. The route begins approximately 200 feet left of the standard beginning of Outer Space. Look for a thin, horizontal flake (visible from base) about 80 feet above the base. The route follows a low angle left leaning ramp towards the flake (see photos).

Route Description


Remorse is a six pitch route (5.8) that tops out on Snow Creek Wall. This is (most likely) a fairly obscure route and it is best known for providing an alternative start to the super-popular Outer Space. Specifically, the first three pitches of Remorse (rated up to 5.8) bypass the first two standard pitches of Outer Space and join that route at the base of the first 5.9 pitch (the start of "real" climbing on Outer Space). The description here is only for the first three pitches of Remorse. If you have done the whole thing and can post detailed info. on the upper pitches of the route, leave a note here. I will delete this page once you post a better page describing the whole route (I'm not looking for a regurgitation of material on one of the guidebooks).

Pitch 1: 5.0, 90 feet. Follow a low angle, bushy gully up for about 20 feet and catch a left trending low angle ramp. Belay from a nice ledge with a small bush on it.

Pitch 2: 5.8, 150 feet. From the ledge, move up till you're level with a thin horizontal flake to your left. Move towards the flake. The final move to reach the flake is a balancy 5.8 move (probably the curx). Traverse along the flake gently underclinging the formation (quite thin - sticking cams behind it does not seem like the best idea). Once the flake ends, continue traversing making a thin face/friction move. Some more balancy 5.8 face moves follow (including a mantle followed by a small downclimb move). The entire pitch is essentially a traverse. It can be more difficult for the follower than the leader (depending on how the leader protects it). Pitch ends by a small bush on a sloping ramp (you can continue another 20 feet up the ramp to reach a spacious ledge with a large tree at the far end - depends on your rope drag).

Pitch 3: 5.7, 100 feet. Move up to the huge ledge just above the belay. The objective of this pitch is to reach the base of the 5.9 pitch on Outer Space (the Two Tree Ledge). Climb either the face with some thin crack(s) or the chimney on the left which then becomes an uncomfortable off-width higher up. The face seemed like a better, more fun option. Scramble into a gully at the top of the pitch and reach the large ledge immediately thereafter. You're now at the base of Outer Space pitch 2. Follow Outer Space to the top....or if you need to bail:

Descent: Downclimb the 5.0 terrain of Outer Space pitch 2 to a set of belay bolts (roped downclimb along easy but exposed ledges that is just over 200 feet in length). Rap from top of pitch 1 of Outer Space (one OK bolt, one bad bolt) to the ground. 1 60 m rope will bring you to just shy of the ground (about 10 feet of easy 5th downclimbing. Note also that you could probably rap back down pitch 3 of Remorse to the large ledge. From there you MIGHT be able to rap off of the large tree with two ropes to the ground - NOT sure about this option.

Essential Gear


Standard rack. Cams up to 3 inches with multiple units in the <1 inch range. Helmets.

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