Shirley & I climbed it on a balmy June day. We've tried twice this year (April & May) but both times were just blasted by high winds before starting the hike in...hence the late season date. A very trad, somewhat committing, very natural/logical line. We liked it. A little loose up top but nothing bad. Descent down 1st Cr. was ___long___. Thanks to Dow for spot on beta!
This was my longest route and longest day to date. Great day out. There were some really great pitches, and some really bad pitches. This is not a long Epinephrine, but is a true trad climb in every sense of the word. No fixed anchors, loose rock, intricate route finding, very committing, long approach, long descent, chimneys, delicate face, hand cracks, and everything else you can imagine.
Stay further left on that runout 5.8 5th pitch before traversing up and right. Took 70m rope and combined quite a few pitches. Thought the 5.10 pitch after the 5.11 (or aid) pitch was scary. Was pumped out on the 5.9 hand traverse (this is a long day!). Been out Oak Creek via Lady Wilson's Cleavage so this time took First Creek. Suppose Oak Creek is better, but not by much really. The route tops out at the summit. That is pretty cool for RR. With Joe A.
"So I was sitting in my cubicle today, and I realized, ever since I started working, every single day of my life has been worse than the day before it. So that means that every single day that you see me, that's on the worst day of my life."
--Peter Gibbons (Office Space)