From your camp in the South Fork of McGee Creek drainage ( see Checkered Demon mountain approach page ), walk up the moraine to the obvious North Face. The right couloir is to the right of a wild looking buttress, with the easier descent gully to its left.
Climb the obvious 800' ice gully. The gully steepens considerably near the top ( 60 degrees ). Either side of the couloir can be followed and rock anchors are possible in the side of couloir. Be careful of extremely loose rock at the top of the couloir.
Descend the lower angle gully to the east.
Ice climbing equipment including ice tools, crampons, helmets, rope, ice screws and a light rock rack. Due to the sometimes rotten nature of the rock, a couple of pitons may be advisable.
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